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Routes in Drone Wall

Beeleave S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Bushy Tailed Wood Rat S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dead Finger S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Drone, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Prestidigitator S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Rain Delay S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rattler, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rubber Boa, The S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Snaked S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stinger S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tres Hermanos S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown 5.11d S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
short, shitty and sharp S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Doug Stout, Darren Knezek, Kelly Chamberlain
Page Views: 985 total, 9/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Oct 26, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Climb up onto the ledge from the ground and clip the first bolt. Using pockets of various sizes (including finger-killing-size) continue up the face. Clip the fourth bolt, figure out how to get past it, and then continue past the fifth bolt to the chains. Some enjoyable movement on this route, and some killer holds.

Location

The third bolted line from the right; located on the side of the crag facing the road.

Protection

5 bolts, chain anchors.

Photos

Logan Bradford
American Fork, UT
Logan Bradford   American Fork, UT
I onsight .10C's all the time, and the face of this route is no .10c. If you head up the corner at the beginning and use the massive pocket on the right about half way up, I can conceive it being a 10c, but the face is at least .11a, if not .11b. Every person I've talked to who has climbed this agrees that the rating on this is just straight up wrong. Aug 23, 2016
BJB
Texas
  5.10c
BJB   Texas
  5.10c
I'm not sure if that ledge about half way up is on or not, but it made for a nice rest and lets you shake out a little before moving into the crux. I thought this was a really fun route that was really well sustained. I liked it a lot. Aug 13, 2011
Ha ha.
Good name for this route! If you find the right "hold" then you will lose all feeling in the tip of the ring finger of your right hand.
Also, Doug Stout snapped a finger tendon working this route in the late 90's, rendering the finger dead for awhile. Nov 2, 2008