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Routes in The Love Knob

Big Ones Need Love Too T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Forgotten Love T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Love Above T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Love Below T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
May-December Romance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
North Slabs T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c X
Recycled Love S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, Sport, 100 ft
FA: 2ME - 2006
Page Views: 99 total, 1/month
Shared By: Brent Kertzman on Oct 25, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

Leftmost route with a bolt protected slab leading to a hand crack. Multiple cruxes of several varieties. Great route overall with very thought provoking moves.

Location

The route is the left most route located near the south end of the east face. This is the first route you will encounter on the approach.

Protection

One set of cams .4" to 3.5", set of stoppers, slings & quick draws.
There are minimal placements in the last 25' feet of the route providing for some runout 5.8 climbing.
Bolted chain anchors.

Photos

ShanJ2me
Rapid City, SD
 
ShanJ2me   Rapid City, SD
 
Don't let the PG-13 rating steer you away from doing this route! Remember anytime you are placing gear it could be. Beta Alert-STOP READING if you don't want any. Multiple cruxes of different kinds makes this route so fun! Get your slab on first for three bolts then get into "The Love" which protects well with medium stoppers at first. Then it gets vertical from a #3 camalot and gets smaller save a .3 for the heady crux. Now your into the "PG-13" - your feet will be about 2 feet above your last piece of pro- just breathe and look for some small stopper placements #5 x 2 they are there.- Hence no bolts -Now run for the chains on easy slab. Get on it!! May 11, 2014