PRINT: Rock Climb Holy Smoke, Lake Tahoe

Holy Smoke

5.11d, Trad, 70 ft (21 m),

Avg: 3.2 from 17 votes
FA: Aidan Maguire, 2000
California > Lake Tahoe > Highway 50 Corr… > Phantom Spires > Upper Spire

Access Issue: Road Closure - Caldor Fire and Dirt road winter closures Details

While climbing is open, Wrights Lake Road is within the Caldor Fire closure: fs.usda.gov/eldorado/. Plan to approach from Hwy 50. In addition, Eldorado National Forest closes dirt roads during wet conditions between November and May. The main office number 530-622-5061 might help you get current conditions, which aren't always updated on the website. fs.usda.gov/detail/eldorado… When the road is closed, simply park on a pullout of Wrights Lake Road and walk the extra mile.

Description

Per ST- "Sustained, balancy, and powerful". Unique and improbable movement. 5.11 climbing at third bolt. Crux move at fourth bolt requires dynamic movement to a gaston finger lock in horizontal roof crack. 5.10 to the chains.

Location

Starts off big shelf to the left of Steppin' Stone. Goes through obvious bulge and roof combo. Finishes on same anchor as Steppin' Stone.

Protection

Trad pro .6 to 1.5" plus 6 bolts. Can clip first bolt by going high on starting shelf - then can continue from there of step back down to start climbing directly beneath the bolt.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Aidan Maguire
Placerville, CA

5.11d

Route is rated 11d and depends a bit on reach at crux. Option gear is not optional unless very bold and up to 1.5 inch.
At 5:8 its a hard 11 Oct 22, 2011

Vlad S
San Francisco, CA

5.12-

The dyno to a gaston fingerlock move was much harder than 5.11 for me as an average height person. There are no feet for that move as well, so being stronger wouldn't even help much. It's all about reach. The climbing up to that point is already in the 5.11+ range. Cool route! I'll try it again once I grow a few inches. Feb 2, 2015

Jordan Hirro
Carbondale

Killer route, Aiden. I'd say the lower half is low 11/10+ until the gaston fingerlock move. As for that, the move is very doable at average height in my opinion. I am 5'10" and had no problems. Sure, it's a bit hard, and I would give it 11d, but my 5'3" girlfriend was consistently within 1 inch of a solid lock. Overall great route, and don't get scared of the reach! Thanks for the addition, Aiden. Jun 29, 2015

Ned

TRed after climbing Steppin Stone. Among the list of holds I never thought I'd have to use at Phantom Spires, there's a bomber mono about half way up. The footless gaston fingerlock dyno was definitely a different level of bouldery than the rest of the climb, but fun moves. Decided not to booty a leaver biner two bolts down from there, it was starting to get worn through, as if a lot of people bailed there. Jun 19, 2016

Austin Donisan
San Mateo, CA

No gear needed, just bolts.

I'm 5'7" and the dyno gaston seemed fair at 5.11+. It felt like a coordination problem in the gym. Nov 17, 2018