PRINT: Rock Climb [Redacted], Colorado Springs

[Redacted]

5.9, Trad, 80 ft (24 m),

Avg: 1 from 2 votes
FA: unknown
Colorado > Colorado Springs > N Cheyenne Canyon > Sun Slabs

Access Issue: Road closure and reopened after flood damage! Details

Per Steven Armijo: Cheyenne Canyon Road is closed until May 2022 for bridge repairs. Only hiking and biking trail access is allowed into the canyon.

Per Stewart M. Green: the North Cheyenne Canyon was reopened after the floods of 2015.

Per Stewart M. Green: ATTENTION!! The Colorado Springs Parks Department has CLOSED ALL CITY PARKS, including Garden of the Gods, Red Rock Canyon Open Space, and North Cheyenne Canon, to rock climbing for the upcoming Memorial Day weekend.

This is due to record rainfall totals in western Colorado Springs which as caused severe trail and parking lot damage, saturated the sandstone cliffs, and is causing parts of cliffs to break off.

The parks will be re-evaluated on Monday to determine how the closure will last.

Please respect the closures and take care of our precious climbing areas!

Description

From the belay, walk right to the corner, clip a fixed pin and use a long runner. Then work up the corner with thin gear at the start. This is the crux and is a little awkward (it climbs a little harder than it looks from below). Clip another loose piton (if you want), then continue up the slab by jamming and lie-backing up the corner with good gear to the 2-bolt anchor at the top of El Nino.

Location

This route climbs the slanting left-facing corner on the Sun Slabs, just right of El Nino. Start up the easy slab as for El Nino and belay at the two-bolt anchor where El Nino begins.

Protection

Standard rack to 2". A couple fixed pins. 2-bolt anchor at the top (shared by El Nino).

Descent

Rappel the route.