PRINT: Rock Climb Stain, Red River Gorge

Stain

5.12c, Sport, 50 ft (15 m),

Avg: 3.8 from 96 votes
FA: Chris Snyder
Kentucky > Red River Gorge > Bald Rock Recre… > Motherlode > (1) Buckeye Buttress

Access Issue: Private Property Details

In 2011, the Ventura Family (owner of Miguel’s Pizza) purchased the land above the cliff line, and the RRGCC’s 2017 purchase of the land beneath the cliff line and the surrounding areas ensures that the Motherlode, Chocolate Factory, and southeastern end of Sore Heel are climber-owned.

Description

Bouldery line to the left of Buff the Wood. Pull a exciting crimpy crux to the third, then head left for a little, and fire through the sequential face to the anchors. Try hard on the last move!

Location

The route to the left of Buff the Wood. First route on the main Buckeye Buttress wall.

Protection

5 bolts plus anchors

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Marcel in Stain, 2ng go.

Crimpin hard on the first crux

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

LeeAB Brinckerhoff
Austin, TX

Not really bouldery. Way more continuous than other routes on this wall. You have to try hard on the last move because you are pumped. Oct 19, 2009

Jack Sparrow
denver, co

This has some of the best movement ive found anywere, incredible. Sep 25, 2015

Bronson Cauthon
Grand Rapids Michigan

5.12c

One of the coolest routes I’ve been on in the Red by far. Very beta dependent sequences, amazing movement, and a heartbreaker deadpoint at the end. May 10, 2019

Taylor S

Sort of sustained. This was really fun! Sort of different from the overhung jugs you find at the Red. You won't regret getting on this really fun climb. Sep 11, 2020

Josh Martin

Excellent route. Sustained climbing that keeps you honest all the way until the chains! Apr 6, 2021

Noah Steinberg

One of the best routes in the Red, very sequency with a heart breaker at the end that'll make you really have to try. Sep 16, 2022

Cris Garcia
Michigan

5.12c

Must do line if you’re in the area! Dial in your sequence and stick to it! Dead point at the end was the beta I chose but if you’ve got the fitness you can do some slightly harder crimp moves to the clip jug. If you're small enough you can sit on the diving board rest..... Lucia are you reading this? Oct 17, 2022