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Sweet Jane

5.8-, Sport, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 2.2 from 477 votes
FA: J. J., Jane Maurer - 2004
Kentucky > Red River Gorge > Muir Valley > Bruise Brothers Wall
Warning Access Issue: Land Owned by Muir Valley Nature Preserve DetailsDrop down

Description

Formerly one of the few interesting trad lines at Bruise Brothers, Sweet Jane has now been retrobolted as a somewhat less remarkable sport route.

Follow a somewhat broken and nicely-featured dihedral up to a short left-leaning hand crack toward the top. Pull the crack and finish at the anchors under the big roof.

Location

Starts just left of Hey There Fancy Pants. Rap from the anchors.

Protection

6 Bolts, bolted anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Narwahl coming down the wall, post-send, Halloween 2023
[Hide Photo] Narwahl coming down the wall, post-send, Halloween 2023
On the anchor-- cold Feb morning, but no falling ice around the few moderates in a row.
[Hide Photo] On the anchor-- cold Feb morning, but no falling ice around the few moderates in a row.
Chris on lead at Bruise Brothers.. Red River Gorge, KY. April 2012. danallardphoto.com
[Hide Photo] Chris on lead at Bruise Brothers.. Red River Gorge, KY. April 2012. danallardphoto.com
Working out the last move on Sweet Jane-- full value finish to this one.  I went left and then across right  to bomber hold on ledge.
[Hide Photo] Working out the last move on Sweet Jane-- full value finish to this one. I went left and then across right to bomber hold on ledge.
Sweet Jane
[Hide Photo] Sweet Jane

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Mark Kauzlarich
Brooklyn
  5.8-
[Hide Comment] Misread the guidebook, and thought I just couldn't see the upper bolts. Makes it PG13 at least if you are like me and run this out. But that was all on me. Nice little climb though to warm up. Apr 3, 2010
Jonathan Marek
Spearfish, SD
 
[Hide Comment] Did this climb 5/17/10. Looks like it has been bolted. Also there is a new line of glue-in bolts to the left which is the same grade. May 24, 2010
Jody Koplo
Chicago, IL
[Hide Comment] Talked to Rick. Apparently people kept mistaking this for a sport climb because of the single bolt. Someone got hurt, so the whole route got bolted. Aug 2, 2010
Jeff Christbaum
Muskego, WI
  5.8-
[Hide Comment] In 2011 this was my first sport lead climb, and I really enjoyed it. The bolts where placed perfectly, in my opinion. Great holds at each spot, perfect for a new leader. I did the route a few more times early this year and it was still just as fun. Apr 30, 2012
Mike Gehle
  5.8-
[Hide Comment] This was my first ever sport lead outdoors. I loved it! With my limited skills, it was challenging enough to keep me very focused, but didn't cause me to cry & soil myself (which is always a possibility). Great route!! May 7, 2012
Patrick Becerra
Madison Heights, Mi
  5.8+
[Hide Comment] This route has a few of the nice, big holds X'ed off. If you knock on them you can hear how hollow they are. The moves through this section are a bit harder when you don't get that one nice, fat flake up towards the middle. May 6, 2014
Gavin Alcott
Philadelphia PA
  5.8-
[Hide Comment] Careful when it rains a lot. Although most of the route stays dry, the finishing jugs can get rather soaked, making it much more difficult and heady to get to the chains. Would not recommend if the top is visibly wet. Aug 19, 2018
aghetie
  5.7
[Hide Comment] Lower half of the climb is very polished and very sandy. Too bad. Nov 8, 2020
DrRockso RRG
Red River Gorge, KY
[Hide Comment] It just got brand new bolts like a week ago. Try trading the days worth of work from the developer for 10 minutes of brushing on your behalf. Nov 8, 2020
[Hide Comment] Great climb that gets harder towards the top. I'm primarily a boulderer so i found the to be be super fun but every one else thought it was really sketchy. Beware of the loose rocks as of 12/19/20. Can't wait to climb it again. Dec 26, 2020
[Hide Comment] Can be extremely wet near the top despite good weather necessitating a wide traverse and difficulty at the anchors. Lots of loose rock as well. Jul 22, 2022
Gabriel Lynn
Grand Rapids, MI
  5.8-
[Hide Comment] After purposely avoiding this climb since my first trip in April, I came back to it on 9/14/23 with reinforced confidence. I'm glad that I did too, because it's much more enjoyable than the chains would have you think! The top of the climb involves some cool moves that left me feeling exposed in a good way. I'd climb it again, and I think its much better than the two climbs surrounding it! Sep 19, 2023
David K
The Road, Sometimes Chattan…
  5.7
[Hide Comment] Fun little climb. If you're looking for a first lead, I'd go for Ohio Climbing around the corner, it's more fun. 1 day ago