Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Blue Sky Wall

Arching Out T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bright Eyes T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Buffalo Brothers S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Closer to the Sun T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Open Air T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ramp S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Type: Sport, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Brian Spiewak, Chris Hubbard
Page Views: 6,027 total · 53/month
Shared By: ccross on Oct 23, 2008
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


48 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

P1: Walk left of belay anchor to find the low crux. Lots of patina after that.
P2: Easier than the previous pitch, great ledge to belay from at the top.

Location

Access from the halfway up the Ramp (left of second anchor), or Rampage.

Protection

Standard sport rack.

Photos

Jason Kim
Encinitas, CA
  5.7+
Jason Kim   Encinitas, CA
  5.7+
The route description might confuse some. This climb starts well up the ramp, which is 5-easy and passes a couple of bolts and a rap station on the way up. Clip these for pro and keep an eye out for the anchor on the left, about 150' up.

The next two pitches are easily linked together with a 60 m rope, and probably should be, unless you enjoy a semi-hanging belay. Even with quickdraws, it's basically straight up and there's no rope drag, so no real reason to pitch it out.

You top out on a dirty/grassy ledge and the top anchor is to your right, situated on a huge block and easy to spot. Rap the route and be mindful of your rope - there are lots of features to get caught up on. Feb 6, 2017
Kemper Brightman
Tucson
 
Kemper Brightman   Tucson
 
With a 70m rope this is essentially a single pitch route that takes three rappels to get off. No need to pitch out the low-angle approach ramp if you don't feel like it, walking up or simuling it are both reasonable options. Belay from the second anchor on the left side of the ramp and link both pitches into a slabtastic tour de patina. From the uppermost rappel anchor, make two raps to the belay anchor on the side of the ramp. One more rap should get you to the base of the ramp (we simul rapped here to maximize stretch).

Doing it this way turns the route into a quick warm up for the other moderate classics nearby. May 8, 2015
Industrialwrench
El Cajon, Ca
  5.6
Industrialwrench   El Cajon, Ca
  5.6
This is a very easy route. The first two moves of the actual route are about it. If your going to make the approach hike in I recommend climbing other routes...Better starter leads in Mission Gorge. Nov 13, 2012
Nick Y.
  5.8-
Nick Y.  
  5.8-
Climbed this on Saturday. Kellen's info is spot on; skip the first station on the way up (but NOT on the way down, unless you like down-climbing). Belay station between the last two pitches is solid but not the most comfortable. Protection seemed plenty adequate to a new leader who's still sketched out by much runout. Bolts are all in great shape. Mar 26, 2012
Did this route a few weeks back. The first two "pitches" are less then memorable and should absolutely be combined together. There are no bolts between the P1 and P2 anchors, however the terrain is 5.2 at worst and very low angle. If you were really concerned you might be able to slot an OK nut somewhere, but it's really not necessary. Better to just lead the first pitch, clip the pitch 1 anchor as an additional bolt, and then climb all the way to the 2nd anchor.

The 3rd and 4th pitches are the quality part of this route. The initial moves off the P2 anchor are a bit thought provoking but not too hard, and put you up on to the wildly featured face. The rock on these pitches is some of the most featured on El Cajon Mt., with lots of positive chickenheads, dinner plates, and flakes on an exposed face. The climbing is pretty sustained on P3, and P4 eases off a bit. The entire wall that this route sits on looks to have lots of potential, although it's hard to tell what the rock quality would be like.

The only less than pleasant part of this route is the raps. The upper portion can get pretty windy in the afternoon, and that in combo with the heavily featured face makes pulling your ropes a bit of a process after each rap. We spent lots of time clearing our rope out of bushes and flakes as we rapped down. Not a huge hassle, just something to be mindful of on your way down. Mar 25, 2012
mschlocker
San Diego, CA
  5.7 PG13
mschlocker   San Diego, CA
  5.7 PG13
I just climbed this. The upper rap station is up to the right of the last bolt. After you top out you have to scramble right and up to the belay station that sits on a separate rock. It is clearly visible from the lower rap station and above. May 16, 2011
Sweet route! I did this yesterday with the wife. However, we couldn't find any rap anchors at the top of the last pitch, only the final bolt before turning over onto the ledge. I wandered around in the shrubs to the left on that ledge but came up empty-handed and had to lower off the last bolt on the face (not psyched). Is that rap station there? Was I looking in the wrong place? May 1, 2011

More About Buffalo Brothers

Printer-Friendly Guide