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Immaculate Virgin

5.6 PG13, Trad, 190 ft, 2 pitches,  Avg: 2.3 from 51 votes
FA: Todd Swain and John Thackray, 1986 pitch 1 Jim McCarthy and John Reppy 1967 pitch 2
New York > Gunks > Trapps > f. The Guides' Wall (…
Access Issue: 2019 Peregrine Closure Details
Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappeling Details


This is a good link up of the first pitch of Immaculate Conception, and the second pitch of Son of Bitchy Virgin.

The start is located at a creaky flake just right of Son of Bitchy Virgin's right-facing corner. Begin by climbing the flake and pulling a short roof to a ledge. Continue straight up the face towards a slung block and belay here (or on gear above).

For a second pitch, climb straight up the face following the best clean holds (trend right; some might find this section a little run gets a PG rating in the Williams guide) before jug-hauling the last bit to the GT ledge. Rap to the ground in two ropes, or to the slung block with one.

Overall a nice (2 star - Williams) route to do in you are in the area.


Mostly standard gear...saving small stuff (blue and black aliens) for the second pitch. One rap with doubles or two raps with a single.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

P2 of Immaculate/Son of Bitchy Virgin
[Hide Photo] P2 of Immaculate/Son of Bitchy Virgin
Johanna climbing the 2nd pitch of Immaculate Virgin.
[Hide Photo] Johanna climbing the 2nd pitch of Immaculate Virgin.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

  5.6 PG13
[Hide Comment] Nice climb. There isn't much gear above the roof till the slung flake on P1, but the climbing is easy. P2 is on a serious side of PG13. Small aliens will be helpful - tiny flaring shallow horizontals in couple of spots till you hit the piton up top. Jun 28, 2010
Logan Schiff
Brooklyn, NY
[Hide Comment] Nice underrated climb. Definitely runout on second pitch but probably no harder than 5.5. May 28, 2013
New Paltz
[Hide Comment] This is a cool climb but "serious side of PG13" as noted above is pretty fair. The placements on the second pitch are quite spaced and you have to hunt for them a bit. If one of them blows you're looking at a pretty major fall. That said, I really enjoyed piecing things together on the second pitch, really nice position and moves.

It did look to me like a blue C4 or equivalent (which I don't carry normally) would have provided some reassurance in the middle of the p1 roof. Not so much to protect the roof as to make up for the fact that you have to go a little ways before you get good gear again. No home for that big piece on the second pitch though!

Consider bringing some cord, both rap anchors could use some TLC. Jun 17, 2015
Montclair, NJ
[Hide Comment] P1 is 5.4. The route gets 5.6 PG due to the link-up with Son of Bitchy Virgin for P2. Aug 15, 2015
Alec Orenstein
Gallup, NM
[Hide Comment] We BARELY made it down in one rap from the GT ledge with a 70. Took a little stemming on the tree in the gully to the let of the Mantle Block, but it worked (with stretch). Extend your rap and have the second hold on to one end of the rope to pull before it slips through your device. Jun 5, 2016
Genevieve Lampinen
[Hide Comment] Really fun lead. If youre on the shorter side I would call P1 a sold 5.6 because pulling the roof isnt straightforward unless you can reach the jugs. Sling the horn before pulling the roof if you're uncomfortable making the move. Jul 31, 2016