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Routes in Paul's Backyard

Annie Get Your Gun S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
De Ham Bone S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gun Rail S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Guns and Roses S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Haf & Haf T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
North Face S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Paul's Paradise S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sling-a-Ding-Ding T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Slingshot Arete S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sweet Pete S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ted Shread T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Top Gun S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown (aka 'Bittersweet Feet') S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unknown (aka 'Filthy Peter') S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unknown (aka 'Platy Galore') S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: B. Bindner, E. Holland, T. Standing 02/10/2008
Page Views: 977 total, 9/month
Shared By: Bruce Bindner on Oct 23, 2008
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Climb the arete of the free-standing "boulder" in the parking area just east of Paul's Paradise, passing four bolts to the anchor. The crux is near the top. The route gets its name from the method we used to first get to the top of this pinnacle... I used a slingshot to get a light nylon line over the top of the formation. I then hauled a climbing rope over the top, whence Nurse Ratchet gave me a belay on the easier east face. Established top down, hand drilling.

Location

This boulder/pinnacle is located in the parking area. Look for bolts on the north arete, to the right of the fire ring.

Protection

4 bolts to Mussy hooks.

Photos

Sean
Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
did you talk to the folks at Elevation about this, or with anyone else in the know, to confirm a "missing" 3rd bolt out of 4? would think they or other locals would be warning others away from this route as well, or have fixed the problem by now, if indeed something horribly wrong. that pillar isn't that tall. when i last climbed that with the 3 lead bolts, beforehand, i got a good look of that runout from the ground, and had discussed with my partner so she too would be aware. i led up knowing that, saw too and passed that hole, and proceeded on accordingly. not that bad of a horror show getting to and clipping that last bolt. if it were, i'd prob still be having nightmares, waking up middle of nights in cold sweat, looking to spoon for immediate reassurance. the runout climbing felt a tad on the hard side for 5.9, but not egregious like 5.11 or something. maybe the infamous 5.9+. i might even be persuaded to vote 5.9++ if there's ever a re-grade assembly with free catering Apr 4, 2015
OlgaMP
Studio City, CA
 
OlgaMP   Studio City, CA
 
The 3rd bolt is missing.

Back in June '13: I tried to lead this route, but once I reached the 2nd bolt I realized that the distance between bolt 2 and 4 was way too far of a risk. Not only the distance, but the route starts from behind the rock and comes around to the front. A fall from that distance could cause a major swing from one side of the rock to the other. Judging from the formation could have been very bad. So I made a decision, put a quick-link on the 2nd bolt and had my partner lower me from there.

This time around (Sept '13): My quick link was still there! We literally slingshot an actual baseball size rock, tied to a utility cord, over the formation. Tied our rope to it and pull it to the other side, then belay from behind the rock to reach the 3 top bolts. Which happens to be how they originally bolted this route. There is a mid section on top of the formation with a small middle caving which prevents the rope from coming off on either side, otherwise I would have never done such thing. I got to the top bots, inspected and set up an anchor for top-rope. Once my partner began to lower me, I realized were the 3rd bolt should have been (which I didn't notice before). The hole was still there, slightly covered, but not visible from the ground. I was able to retrieve my own quick-link (piece I left behind to bail in June) and will save it as a reminder. The route was hard, even on TR. I would never recommend anyone leading this, until that 3rd bolt is replaced. Sharp little finger-cutting holds, lots of loose and hollow areas, blablabla
Sep 4, 2013
Sean
Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
3 bolts (not 4) to Mussy hooks Nov 26, 2012