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Routes in Mall Wall

Bluto Tastes An Olive S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gotta Move S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Popeye Meets The Burrito Master S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rave On S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: FA: Unknown, FFA: Wolfe/DeMatteo/Thompson
Page Views: 3,686 total · 32/month
Shared By: MisterE Wolfe on Oct 22, 2008
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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66 Opinions

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Description

Clip a low bolt & surmount a difficult start to fun jugs on a steep wall. Climb past an arete & through a bulge. (40 feet).

Location

Directly to the left of "Popeye Meets the Burrito Master" on Mall Wall.

Protection

6 bolts, fixed clip anchors

Photos

Iain Macdonald
Flagstaff/Tucson
  5.10b
Iain Macdonald   Flagstaff/Tucson
  5.10b
Very easy up to the crux/bulge at the top. Aug 15, 2017
First bolt is spinning but doesn't seem to be coming out of the rock 11/14/2016 Nov 14, 2016
Buddy Nielsen
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10a
Buddy Nielsen   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10a
Super fun route. Good holds up to ledge before the bulge. I used the arete to get past what I thought was the crux move. I thought it was a great route, I know the bulge can be awkward but I think it was an interesting sequence, and was satisfying to finish. It felt a little harder than an 5.9+ to me, but it could have been because of the altitude had me pretty gassed, and pumped. Either way I dug it. Aug 11, 2016
Christopher Parke
Flagstaff, Arizona
  5.10a
Christopher Parke   Flagstaff, Arizona
  5.10a
A fun climb, with a couple of weird moves. There is an awkward rest on a ledge right before the committing move over the "olive" on the top. I would do it again. Jun 21, 2014
wvoorhis
Knoxville, TN
  5.9+
wvoorhis   Knoxville, TN
  5.9+
Okay route until the finish, where the bulge makes for super awkward final moves to reach the anchors. Jan 20, 2014
Richard Fernandez
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10a
Richard Fernandez   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10a
Second the warm-up quality of the route, we need more moderates at the pit. I like using the arete though, keeps it stellar! I'd go with the 5.9+ only because the top can be a bit dicey with out any beta on the low right, hard to see from above, foot. Thanks guys! Dec 4, 2008
MisterE Wolfe
Bishop, CA
 
MisterE Wolfe   Bishop, CA
 
Information regarding FA/FFA has been amended to reflect history.

The route has been cleaned and the bush pruned. I will camo the anchors and clean them up this week.

Erik

Edit: The route is to the left of the "black face" mentioned above:

mountainproject.com/images/…

Double edit: Camo & fill done. 10/30/08 Oct 27, 2008
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.10
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.10
Dean.... better place to spend money on hardware? You mean like new and undeveloped areas? Needed bolt replacements? Scary back country crags?

Erik has done them all plus some. To me, if he (and a few other locals) felt they could get a quality line in at the Pit, then let them. As for squeeze jobs... perhaps. Erik mentioned (on a different forum so how would you know) that he felt it would actually add to the area which is ever so popular with few moderates for people to hang on. I've seen people camp all day with a top rope on Popeye. Perhaps this will give them something to try that they otherwise wouldn't have.

On a side note, nearly that entire crag has fresh anchors already and it is in the process of an anchor replacement process now. Perhaps the idea of painted anchors should be posted on that thread too? I agree, it's never to late to at least disguise impact.

Funguy, If you're going to hop on the TR turned FA bandwagon you've got a lot of typing to do. This phenomenon happens and nearly every crag in the country.

Erik, please change your route description to reflect FFA and next time you've got $50 to burn take it up with a committee first.

~Susan Oct 27, 2008
Greg DeMatteo
W. Lebanon, NH
  5.10-
Greg DeMatteo   W. Lebanon, NH
  5.10-
The route went up Wednesday and there is still some brushing to do. Eric didn't have the right tool to remove the blown bolt and will be returning soon to patch that up. Camoing the anchors is a good idea.

As for the route spot, I would have been the first to complain about another route "squeezed in" but it is a fully independent line and isn't contrived. It's a short but quality route at a grade where moderate climbers and folks looking for more warm ups will enjoy and appreciate it. There are a lack of easier routes at the Pit and I can see this one getting plenty of traffic.

I say thanks to Eric for putting in the effort and the cash on a moderate route. The Pit can certainly use more moderates instead of another .12+ project. Oct 24, 2008

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