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Routes in Main Area

Ape Man TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a V0- 4-
Bon Voyage TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Butt Slammer TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Chris' Reach TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Flenner Sit Down V3 6A
Foot Loose TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Footloose Direct T,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
Great Escape, The TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Green Slime TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hard Traverse V4- 6B
Jay's Dyno V3-4 6A+
Middle Traverse V1-2 5
Missouri Breaks TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mister Easy TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Open Book, The T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rock Garden T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Roots TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Russian Vault TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Solution Pocket T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Straight Up TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sunshine TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Swing Time TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Three Horns T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
White Lightning TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, TR, 75 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,428 total · 20/month
Shared By: Bryan Hall on Oct 22, 2008
Admins: Marcus Floyd, Dave Hug

You & This Route


19 Opinions

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Description

Bouldery start up pocketed limestone to a small alcove. From there head out the roof crack into the "Open Book" dihedral above. Top out to complete the crux!

Location

Head past the low angle section of the wall and it is the first route to the right.

Protection

Slings and gear up to 2" There is a solitary bolt on top of the cliff that is used for top roping.

Photos

Elijah Flenner
Fort Collins, CO
  5.9 PG13
Elijah Flenner   Fort Collins, CO
  5.9 PG13
A few comments on the description. There are several bolts on the top that can be used for a top rope, and you should not use just one. The route is about 35 feet.

The route takes finger and hand sized gear at the roof. I have also seen someone place, and fall on, a large cam right under the roof. After the roof, the gear is sparse (some may say that it does not exist).

The upper crux is probably the best crux sequence at Capen Park. Oct 23, 2008
Will Cobb
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.9+
Will Cobb   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.9+
I always liked this route because the crux came just at the very top. During my short time in Columbia it seemed like this route would get TRed quite often but rarely led. Karp would show up from time to time and lead the thing, but I never got up the nerve. Mar 7, 2009
Joe Lo
  5.10+
Joe Lo  
  5.10+
Awesome route, it was very exciting to lead no doubt about it!! The crux is right after the roof, definitely one of the best movements in the park.

Also was able to put a small cam in a pocket about four feet above roof

Climbing is 5.6-5.7 until the roof, then pulling roof and finishing is definitely in the 5.10 range. No 5.9 no doubt about it Oct 28, 2012
Elijah Flenner
Fort Collins, CO
  5.9 PG13
Elijah Flenner   Fort Collins, CO
  5.9 PG13
Nice lead Joe. I hear the top is MUCH more polished than it was 20 years ago; when I lead it. I am curious what cam you used in the pocket above the roof. Might be good information for future ascents, and I cannot possibly imagine what would fit well.

Cheers,
Elijah Oct 29, 2012
Joe Lo
  5.10+
Joe Lo  
  5.10+
Thanks brother. It was a c4 .75. It felt really solid, and gave me confidence.

And i have no doubt it is MUCH more polished than 20 years ago,
The Mizzou Climbing Club has been shredding those cliffs every Wednesday for a few years now. Many laps ran and whips taken/thrown. Capen Rocks.

One Love and stay radd.

Nov 7, 2012
cgraves
Denver CO
cgraves   Denver CO
Nice photo of Joe heading into the crux.
Jogged my memories of yesteryear of that move. Placing gear was tough.
With the polish, the route must be significantly harder than in 1977.
Cannot recall the gear we used. What ever it was must have been sketch. Mar 2, 2014
Joey Counts
Salem, MO
 
Joey Counts   Salem, MO
 
Checked this place out many times, glad to finally get on the wall.
Two bolts up top now.
Great climb, fun and tough. Feb 26, 2018

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