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Routes in Galengrat

Galengrat-verschneidung 5c T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, 9 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,525 total · 31/month
Shared By: Colin Winter on Oct 22, 2008
Admins: Dan Flynn

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A superb, moderate day climb on raw, alpine granite in a breathtaking alpine setting. rock is solid and the climbing varied. The final two pitches, up an awesome corner to the gain the ridge, offer continuously brilliant climbing from start to finish.

The route is around 300 meters, and has nine pitches.


The approach begins from the top of the Furka pass, traversing across beautiful alpine terrain to the base of the Sidelen glacier. The wall is at the back end of the glacier. The total approach time is around 1 hour and 45 minutes, with limited vertical.

A fixed rope near the base of the wall (in place to facilitate the start for various snow levels) provides a good means for orientation.

Descent is via abseilpiste, starting from the last anchor of the route.

The Sidelen hut is near the base of the glacier, and is a good base location for this and the many other routes in this area. There are a number of modest hotels/restaurants along the pass road as well.


Overall, the route is reasonably well equipped with bolts/pitons (including bolted anchors). A small assortment of complementary gear may come in handy. The first pitch, which at 5c is the most difficult of the route, is very well bolted.
Though this is included in all of the more recent Plaisir guidebooks tot the area, due to global warming glacier recession, the first pitch (which before was under ice) is harder than 5.9. The route remains a classic for position, crack climbing, and outstanding views of the entire Berner Oberland. Rock quality similar to the best in the Winds. Aug 20, 2012
Dan Flynn
Dan Flynn   MA  
We started too far left, ended up doing a short but harder start pitch, then traversed right to the actual start. Look for the fixed rope!

Descent now also possible from the E face. Keep going from the finish up to the summit ridge, and look for a large cairn with flags on it. Look back, and you should see "50 m -->" painted in red, pointing to the abseilpiste. 4x 50 or 3x 60 gets you down to a snow field, easy scramble and sliding down to the glacier.

Also, from the Galengrat finish it is less than an hour to the summit of Galenstock. Easy terrain except for a short section of ~ 40° snow, well worth the effort to get the summit view. Oct 7, 2012

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