Type: Trad, Sport, Alpine, 9 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,788 total · 27/month
Shared By: Colin Winter on Oct 22, 2008
Admins: Dan Flynn, Mark P.

You & This Route

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A superb, moderate day climb on raw, alpine granite in a breathtaking alpine setting. rock is solid and the climbing varied. The final two pitches, up an awesome corner to the gain the ridge, offer continuously brilliant climbing from start to finish.

The route is around 300 meters, and has nine pitches.


The approach begins from the top of the Furka pass, traversing across beautiful alpine terrain to the base of the Sidelen glacier. The wall is at the back end of the glacier. The total approach time is around 1 hour and 45 minutes, with limited vertical.

A fixed rope near the base of the wall (in place to facilitate the start for various snow levels) provides a good means for orientation.

Descent is via abseilpiste, starting from the last anchor of the route.

The Sidelen hut is near the base of the glacier, and is a good base location for this and the many other routes in this area. There are a number of modest hotels/restaurants along the pass road as well.


Overall, the route is reasonably well equipped with bolts/pitons (including bolted anchors). A small assortment of complementary gear may come in handy. The first pitch, which at 5c is the most difficult of the route, is very well bolted.