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Routes in Big Picture Wall

Armageddon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Beauty and the Beast S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Better Off Dead S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Blockbuster S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Clockwork Orange S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dazed and Confused S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
First Blood S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gorillas in the Mist S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Grease S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Maximum Overdrive S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Quest for Fire S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Raw Justice S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Slaughterhouse Five S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Something Wicked This Way Comes S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
T2 Judgement Day S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Total Recall S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Totally Orange Gorillas S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Totally Recalled S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Type: Sport
FA: Mikel Cronin
Page Views: 1,560 total, 14/month
Shared By: t.schwartz on Oct 22, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

Multiple cruxes throughout the route with great rests, culminating with a sick undercling to a slopey right hand move passing the ninth bolt, one more gas move passing the tenth bolt (previous anchors), then slab climbing on amazing black rock to the anchors...a MC classic on bullet proof rock, hard to beat. Fourth route from the left.

Protection

11 bolts

Photos

BBQ
BBQ  
I just ate a troll for breakfast. And now I am going to go climb a route that I just bolted in Spearfish Canyon. YUM! YUM! Tasters Choice! Jun 2, 2017
W. Elliot First Blood is 100% natural line. Obviously you have never established a route on pocketed stone but it requires that that pockets be comfortized rather than skin rippers. I can count on both hands the amount of manufactured holds out of the 700+ routes in Spearfish Canyon and those were done in the early 90's when that was more the norm than today. First Blood was the first route at the Big Picture Gully and I feel one of my best contributions to the canyon. So when a person posts false information I get a bit defensive as do others. Glad you enjoyed the route but keep your negative and inaccurate BS to yourself. May 31, 2017
lee terveen
Spearfish, South Dakota
lee terveen   Spearfish, South Dakota
W. Elliott I don't know if you've drilled pockets before but you have no idea what your talking about.. Every route on this wall is el natural and filed perfectly. Route establishers deserve compliments not your bull shit conclutions. routes in spearfish will share holds here and there but if the lines are worthy they are equipped. You obviously still climbed the route and called its stellar so why critsize about crowding? Did you climbed the routes left or right of first blood? They are equally as good or better and your saying they shouldn't be equipped because a bolt is to close to you while climbing which ruins your experience. Well then your in the wrong spot. Go home. Keep your bolting ethics to yourself and realize you wouldn't be climbing shit in spearfish if it wasn't for locals and them putting out a guide book. Route establishment isn't easy and your criticism does nothing for walls that are already bolted. We just climb in South Dakota. And it seems like you just bitch in Colorado. Hater! May 31, 2017
w.elliott  
 
This thing is so good, and easily the hardest 5.12c I've ever been on. It felt like Predator climbing into Sucking My Will to Live (for all of those front rangers). I think it's a shame that the route fabricators didn't drill those holds a little further away from the other routes. I understand the goal of high-fiving your buddy while he is sending the route next to you, but I don't have friends, so it makes me lonely...Next time please make your independent lines more spaced.

(My tongue-in-cheek comments need should be more over the top to be obvious...) May 31, 2017
As far as our "squeezed " routes go we bolt em that way so we can climb them two at a time. We achieve a higher level of fitness this way as well as crowd the walls faster to avoid climbing next to someone who wants to complain rather than just enjoy. Oct 17, 2016
bheller
SL UT
 
bheller   SL UT
 
As a pure and beautiful line, it is a shame it was squeezed so hard by neighboring routes. Oct 14, 2016
Gneiss Yeti
Denver, Colorado
 
Gneiss Yeti   Denver, Colorado
 
This is the most fun thing on rock. Simply amazing rock and beautiful movement. The extension just adds to the quality of the climb. Brilliant Jul 21, 2015
R.Walters
  5.12c
R.Walters  
  5.12c
Not all the routes that received extensions had their original anchors removed. SWTWC and Armageddon still have their old chains because the extensions are far more difficult. I agree 12c on 1st Blood to the old anchors. There's a move passing that spot now, but it's not as hard as anything lower on the route.

This wall is absolutely brilliant. Aug 5, 2014
WAGbag
Denver, CO
WAGbag   Denver, CO  
This was listed in the old guide as 12b to the original anchor below the black rock. My opinion is 12c with or without the extension. Also note that the 'extension' is now the only route - the old anchors were removed. This applies to all the routes here that received extensions. Some of them got much harder so do not rely on the old guide grades. Aug 25, 2011