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Routes in Chatfield Hollow Main Wall

Anarchist , The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Blinded By The Puss T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bloody Beetroots, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Captain Moonlite T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Clark Bar Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cold Vein , The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Dyno Problem TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Edgy T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Exposed TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fear The Wolf T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Food Pyramid T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Forearm Frenzy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hollow Head Crew/Forearm Direct T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Its Own Spirit T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Jungle Face T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Kilometer Variation V4 6B
Kyles Corner T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Lisa's Layback T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Magic Central S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Marmalade T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Modern Collective T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Mudskipper, The T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Noriega - AKA - Bolt or Jolt TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
P&H T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pisces T,TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Psycho Jap S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ridiculoid T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Shape Shifter S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Silver Wings S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sirius T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sleep Walker , The S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Spider T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Summer V5 6C
Super Slab T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Super Vivid V5 6C
TRad Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tickery T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tokyo Rose S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Trickery T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Twilight Singer T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wallow In The Hollow T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
We Don't Toprope T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Zeitgeist T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,564 total, 23/month
Shared By: Jim O'Brien on Oct 22, 2008
Admins: Morgan Patterson

You & This Route


28 Opinions

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Description

Crux may be getting off the ground... hidden crimpers are delightful as you inch up to the crux, you will know it when you get there. Top 1/3 is slope city... good ledge above.

Location

Just around the Clark Bar corner, the pocked wall

Protection

Usually TR'd - Led by Bob Clark on gear, but I don't see where to place any until after the crux...trees at the top for anchors
J Meagher
  5.11a
J Meagher  
  5.11a
Awesome technical and sustained face climbing! I wouldn't say this is an absolute classic face climb like Lonesome Dove, but I think it deserves more than 2.9 stars so im giving it 4. I found the crux wasn't right off the ground, to me the crux felt like getting a high left hand into the undercling under the bulge about 1/3 of the way up, which was awkward but fun. Take full advantage of the decent rest about halfway up, I neglected it and fell on the long move to the final sloper on multiple attempts due to the pump. Excellent test of 5.10+ face climbing on slopey crimps, remember to trust your feet in the crux sequence! Dec 28, 2013
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
I soloed this after only climbing for a year or so (80s), got to the top and said "What the hell did I do that for". Nice climbing, but a TR is recommended Jul 3, 2011
John Biehn
Madison, CT
  5.10a X
John Biehn   Madison, CT
  5.10a X
Years ago we called this climb "Halfmoon" because of the few crescent shaped features that are near the crux.

Great climb but I think it deserves more of an "X" than an "R" if someone wants to lead it....... Jun 15, 2011