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Jolt or Not to Bolt (aka Noriega)

5.10d, Trad, TR, 40 ft (12 m),  Avg: 2.8 from 50 votes
FA: Bob Clark
Connecticut > Eastern Coastal… > Chatfield Hollow Main…

Description

Crux may be getting off the ground... hidden crimpers are delightful as you inch up to the crux, you will know it when you get there. Top 1/3 is slope city... good ledge above.

Location

Just around the Clark Bar corner, the pocked wall

Protection

Usually TR'd - Led by Bob Clark on gear, but I don't see where to place any until after the crux...trees at the top for anchors

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Photo credit to Jim. I just wanted to show the usual beta and possible variation that can circumvent the usual crux.
[Hide Photo] Photo credit to Jim. I just wanted to show the usual beta and possible variation that can circumvent the usual crux.
Finding the first 'jug' hold after the crimpy start ...
[Hide Photo] Finding the first 'jug' hold after the crimpy start ...
Li'l T absolutely decimating Noriega's rounded crimps.
[Hide Photo] Li'l T absolutely decimating Noriega's rounded crimps.
Me sticking the finish jug.<br> Photo by Ollie McMahon
[Hide Photo] Me sticking the finish jug. Photo by Ollie McMahon
John Meagher on the pumpy upper half.<br> Photo by Ollie McMahon
[Hide Photo] John Meagher on the pumpy upper half. Photo by Ollie McMahon
Noriega, Chatfield Hollow
[Hide Photo] Noriega, Chatfield Hollow

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

John Biehn
Madison, CT
  5.10a X
[Hide Comment] Years ago we called this climb "Halfmoon" because of the few crescent shaped features that are near the crux.

Great climb but I think it deserves more of an "X" than an "R" if someone wants to lead it....... Jun 15, 2011
M Sprague
New England
 
[Hide Comment] I soloed this after only climbing for a year or so (80s), got to the top and said "What the hell did I do that for". Nice climbing, but a TR is recommended Jul 3, 2011
Christopher Beargeron
Providence, RI
5.10b/c R
[Hide Comment] Would definitely not have lead this if I had known it has approximately 0 places to throw in gear. Either take down the trad classification of this climb or add an R or an X rating to the grade.

As for climbing grade 10d might be a little high. Maybe 10b/c.

The movement is solid and the climb is enjoyable though. May 11, 2020
Shawn S
Seattle WA
  5.10
[Hide Comment] lol Chris B, you didn't read the protection deets on mp, you didn't see the lack of decent pro from the deck, you went to a busy area during a pandemic, and you still are suggesting a downgrade on an already sandbagged route? ...nice... May 11, 2020
Echoinfi
 
[Hide Comment] This has been led. Definitely falling would be unwise. Aug 3, 2020