Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Cheselenflue

Blauer Käfer 6a+ S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Die Maenner von Memmental 7a+ S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Flaschengeist S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Kontinuum 6c+ S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Meteorit S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pulsar 7a S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Roter Punkt 6c S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Technoparty S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Trockener Regen S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Viadukt S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 600 ft, 7 pitches, Grade IV
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,311 total, 12/month
Shared By: Colin Winter on Oct 21, 2008
Admins: Dan Flynn

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

The easiest route of the area, and every bit as good as the others. Indeed, the route is a masterpiece, offering brilliant climbing at a continuous, moderate level of difficulty.

Pitch 1: 5c+, up a pillar and onto the wall proper, offering superb face climbing on good, at times thin hods.
Pitch 2: 5b, like climbing a ladder, superb bands of rock, one good hold after another, before easing off to a big ledge.
Pitch 3: 5c+, from the end of the ledge, the best pitch of the route, and perhaps the entire area. Sustained and technical from start to finish, with an interesting change of pace two thirds of the way up.
Pitch 4: 5b, a mild but aesthetic pitch traversing up and left. A bit chossy at first.
Pitch 5: 5b (with 60 meter ropes, pitches four and five can be combined), moderate, pleasant face climbing up and to the left.
Pitch 6: 5b, another pleasant pitch of technical face climbing on small but good holds.
Pitch 7: 5c+, a brilliant, steep conclusion to the route on very positive holds.

Note: another, markedly more difficult route crosses the route and shares its second, third and fifth anchor. At the second anchor, make sure to take the pitch on the left. At the third anchor, make sure to take the pitch on the right. The other route finishes at the fifth anchor.

Location

The approach leads directly to the base of the route, at the furthest extension of the wall (a pillar extension from the proper face), with the only tree at that elevation marking the spot. The name of the route is marked on the rock.

Descent is by straightforward abseil.

Protection

The routes is very well bolted. No complementary protection is required.

Photos

FourT6and2
San Francisco, CA
FourT6and2   San Francisco, CA
Do you need to use twin ropes? Or can a single 60m or 70m rope do? The route guide PDF from Melchsee-Frutt says two 50m ropes. But the route guide doesn't show how long each pitch is, so no way of knowing if a 60m or 70m rope will work for rappel back down... Nov 1, 2016