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Routes in Paul's Backyard

Annie Get Your Gun S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
De Ham Bone S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dress Rehearsal T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Gun Rail S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Guns and Roses S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Haf & Haf T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
North Face S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Paul's Paradise S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sling-a-Ding-Ding T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Slingshot Arete S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sweet Pete S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ted Shread T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Top Gun S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown (aka 'Bittersweet Feet') S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unknown (aka 'Filthy Peter') S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unknown (aka 'Platy Galore') S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Unknown 10b S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wrist Rocket S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: B. Bindner, E. Holland 11/2006 (G.U.)
Page Views: 1,197 total · 10/month
Shared By: Bruce Bindner on Oct 20, 2008
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Getting into the crack is the crux. Climb the crack, then up grainy face past a bolt to the anchor.

Location

This is the right slanting crack just right of Paul's Paradise North Face.

Protection

a few pieces to 2.5"

Photos

Sean
Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
pro to 0.75 (green Camalot) Nov 26, 2012
I totally disagree that getting into the crack is the crux - it's barely 5th class. There is a crux low in the crack and another up higher. The crack takes good small pro and you can sew it up for both cruxes. I placed a couple nuts, aliens and nothing bigger than a #1 camalot. I could have used one more small alien at the exit of the crack but I was probably overkilling the gear. The top is total choss but the moves are slabby and the bolt is right where you need it. There is a big scary chossy flake to the left of the anchor just waiting for someone to knock it off. May 28, 2013

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