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Routes in Paul's Backyard

Annie Get Your Gun S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
De Ham Bone S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gun Rail S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Guns and Roses S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Haf & Haf T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
North Face S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Paul's Paradise S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sling-a-Ding-Ding T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Slingshot Arete S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sweet Pete S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ted Shread T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Top Gun S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown (aka 'Bittersweet Feet') S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unknown (aka 'Filthy Peter') S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unknown (aka 'Platy Galore') S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: B. Bindner, E. Holland 11/2006 (G.U.)
Page Views: 1,108 total · 10/month
Shared By: Bruce Bindner on Oct 20, 2008
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Getting into the crack is the crux. Climb the crack, then up grainy face past a bolt to the anchor.

Location

This is the right slanting crack just right of Paul's Paradise North Face.

Protection

a few pieces to 2.5"

Photos

I totally disagree that getting into the crack is the crux - it's barely 5th class. There is a crux low in the crack and another up higher. The crack takes good small pro and you can sew it up for both cruxes. I placed a couple nuts, aliens and nothing bigger than a #1 camalot. I could have used one more small alien at the exit of the crack but I was probably overkilling the gear. The top is total choss but the moves are slabby and the bolt is right where you need it. There is a big scary chossy flake to the left of the anchor just waiting for someone to knock it off. May 28, 2013
Sean
Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
pro to 0.75 (green Camalot) Nov 26, 2012