Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: B. Bindner, E. Holland 11/2006 (G.U.)
Page Views: 1,220 total · 10/month
Shared By: Bruce Bindner on Oct 20, 2008
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

Getting into the crack is the crux. Climb the crack, then up grainy face past a bolt to the anchor.

Location

This is the right slanting crack just right of Paul's Paradise North Face.

Protection

a few pieces to 2.5"

Photos

Sean
Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
pro to 0.75 (green Camalot) Nov 26, 2012
I totally disagree that getting into the crack is the crux - it's barely 5th class. There is a crux low in the crack and another up higher. The crack takes good small pro and you can sew it up for both cruxes. I placed a couple nuts, aliens and nothing bigger than a #1 camalot. I could have used one more small alien at the exit of the crack but I was probably overkilling the gear. The top is total choss but the moves are slabby and the bolt is right where you need it. There is a big scary chossy flake to the left of the anchor just waiting for someone to knock it off. May 28, 2013