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Smokin' Joe

5.11, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 3.1 from 58 votes
FA: Tim Cornette, 1996
Kentucky > Red River Gorge > Northern Gorge > Funk Rock City
Warning Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest. DetailsDrop down

Description

Start by climbing up a short dihedral with a finger crack immediately to its right. Gain a stance at the top of the pedestal and clip the first bolt. Follow the thin crack straight up to reach the 2nd bolt (crux). Trend up and left away from the crack and head toward the base of an overhang. Pull the overhang and continue over steep rock on great holds to reach the shuts.

Location

The right most sport line on the face just to the left of Joe Camel crack.

Protection

8 bolts, shuts. A finger sized cam or Stopper can be placed in the finger crack before reaching the first bolt.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

High first bolt on Smokin' Joe, follow the seam to the top of the block then branch left onto the face.
[Hide Photo] High first bolt on Smokin' Joe, follow the seam to the top of the block then branch left onto the face.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.11b/c
[Hide Comment] This is a nice route but the hard-ish boulder at about bolt three or four is out of character with the rest of the climbing. Overall this route climbs well but the hardest moves could put the smack down. Nov 29, 2021
Jarek Voyles
Beattyville, KY
 
[Hide Comment] One of the best around at the grade. The crack at the start takes gear if you’re worried about it. The crux is so satisfying once unlocked. Enjoy a sweet jug cruise to the chains! Dec 8, 2022
F r i t z
North Mitten
  5.11b/c
[Hide Comment] Delightful route. I placed a #1 to protect the mantel onto the pillar, and a black Totem before the first bolt, which I had to stand on my tiptoes at the edge of the pillar to clip (I'm 5'10a"). Apr 28, 2023