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Eye of the Needle

5.11b, Sport, 85 ft,  Avg: 3.5 from 109 votes
FA: Tim Powers, Neal Strickland, 1992
Kentucky > Red River Gorge > Funk Rock City

Description

Start by climbing up a slabby section of rock with some friction moves to reach good holds. Wander up the face, using the arete as needed. Sometimes the moves are on the face, sometimes you need the excellent holds provided by the sharp corner of the arete. Toward the top, it becomes a bit more overhung, but the arete becomes more and more useful to supply jugs. This route is just plain fun! Certainly do it if you are here! It's a nice break from all of the other pumpy routes in the area. It's also exceptionally well protected.

Location

This route is the arete immediately to the left of Sparky Goes Crack Climbing and about 30 ft to the left of Manic Impression.

Protection

10 bolts, chains.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Eye of the Needle
[Hide Photo] Eye of the Needle
The Start of Eye of the Needle
[Hide Photo] The Start of Eye of the Needle
Eye of the Needle
[Hide Photo] Eye of the Needle
Eye of the Needle
[Hide Photo] Eye of the Needle

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

tscupp
Englewood, CO
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] I'd recommend staying right and in the crack until you're about even with the third bolt. Trying to go up the left arete will probably put you in no holds land pretty quickly. May 4, 2013
Tim Powers
Indiana
[Hide Comment] The crack was not used on the FA. Sep 22, 2013
[Hide Comment] Agreed! Without the crack gives it the 11.b rating. 2 days ago