PRINT: Rock Climb Scary Turtles, Southwest Oregon

Scary Turtles

5.11b, Sport, 100 ft (30 m),

Avg: 2.7 from 3 votes
FA: unknown
Oregon > Southwest Oregon > Callahans > 1 Turtle Rock

Access Issue: PERMIT REQUIRED Details

WALK-IN PERMITS
Permit sales start June 23rd at 7pm
$100 each
Permit Term: August 1 – July 23 of following year.
recreation.weyerhaeuser.com…
This permit covers Non-Motorized walk-in access to the Coos Bay Millicoma Tree Farm, including the Callahans climbing area west of Roseburg, Oregon.
When parking on Touchstone Rd, do not block the school bus turnaround and be respectful of all neighbors. As private timberland, climber compliance with the permit system is critical for Access Fund and SW Oregon Climbers Coalition to explore future improved access with Weyerhaeuser, such as a recreational lease.

Description

A long pitch on solid rock. Starts off with big moves on jugs to a ledge. The crux is at the top and involves a continuous lieback up a crack. There are two or three options to finish, which seem to increase in difficulty from left to right.

Location

On the right side of Turtle rock, the first route to the left of the 5.8 crack. Starts on big huecos up a slightly overhanging face.

Protection

Bolts. Easy top-rope access.