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Routes in East Face - 1st Tier

Angel Dust S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Breeze Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Prodigal Son S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 867 total, 8/month
Shared By: Rich F. on Oct 19, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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2017 Seasonal Closures - Partial Closure Lifting Details

Description

The route follows the obvious line. It has an easy start, it is a little sandy and slick in places along the large crack/elongated flake, but there are lots of good holds and foot placements.

Location

The route is on South and East side of Keyhole Rock. It follows an obvious line along a crack/flake up to a large pine tree (see photo).

Protection

Trad -- but easy to protect. Placed a #2 Camalot in short crack/gap 15' up; the main "crack" is actually an elongated flake and I wrapped a long sling through a hole in the back and around it; then placed a #2 Link Cam in a crack 10' below the finish. Anchored at the large tree on top to belay up the follower, then an easy walk off to the south.

Photos

We climbed this one yesterday. While fun, it is one of the dirtiest routes I have climbed in the Garden. Sand on top of mud on top of sand. Still, probably worth doing. Aug 1, 2010

 
Led starting at ledge 20' up. The first 20' above the ground looked fairly easy but difficult to protect w/o first setting a piece above the ledge (easy to do). I ran it out a bit up to the narrow flake which appears to be held in place by mud. I actually stradled the top of the narrow flake (no style points). Pretty easy but sandy and muddy above and left of the flake. Anchored on two small trees to belay Rich up who climbed from the ground. Used just 3 medium cams. Walked off to the south. May 20, 2009