PRINT: Rock Climb Men At Arms, The Gunks

Men At Arms

5.10a/b PG13, Trad, 80 ft (24 m),

Avg: 2.6 from 30 votes
FA: Jim McCarthy, Dick Williams 1966; Direct: Henry Barber 1970s
New York > Gunks > Trapps > e. The Mac Wall (Some…

Description

Head straight up the dark face left of the Try Again's left-facing corner up, just right of the overhanging corner (you'll be just a couple of feet from Try Again). Head back left about 6 feet to just below a small roof. Place a small nut, and head up just left of the grassy seam. Once you pull up over the roof, it's good to have a small C3 or green alien. Continue up a balancy move (or 2) then head directly right to the shared chains (but don't forget to protect your second!).

Location

Start at the Try Again left-facing corner, down and right from the Mac Wall.

Protection

Standard Rack with double small nuts, and doubles on small cams or 2 for the crux ... limited gear options as you pull the roof and the balance crux above.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

lucander
Stone Ridge, NY

5.10b PG13

Good write up for this route, I followed the description in the Grey Dick, which advised me to build a belay on a tiny stance with small gear. A 5.9/.10- move came right after the belay, I would have crashed into my partner and compromised the integrity of our less than perfect anchor (read: aided through on little c3 cams). After that, I climbed pretty much straight up to the GTL. This got interesting, as rock quality was okay but fallen trees attached to not much were pointing downward aimed at me like a missile. Big lumps of mushroom shaped unconsolidated dirt. Ick.

In short, keep you head together for the move of the ledge down low, bust a right to the Try Again anchors at the top, and enjoy this otherwise fine climb. Mar 10, 2011

Dan Flynn
Northeast mostly

I got to the stance at the end of P1 (according to Grey Dick), and like lucander decided there was no way to build a solid belay there. Went up right around short corner, then back left towards blunt arete. Lots of possible paths on the face, just keep moving up to the top. Jul 1, 2011

Pawel Janowski
Seattle, WA

5.10a

No need to build an intermediate anchor. Just go all the way to the Try Again chains.

I can't decide if I like this climb: the moves are fun but you keep zigzagging left and right. I guess it's a great climb if you like making diagonal reaches.

The Trapps app has a fairly accurate picture of the line. Apr 12, 2016

M Santisi

Write up mentions a green alien (or small c3s) after the roof. I found a green alien to be too big. I got a very good green c3 in this horizontal and I believe a purple c3 would work as well. Usually I wouldn’t nitpick but this piece is incredibly important and if you got to this stance and didn’t have the pieces I mention or equivalent it would be fairly heart breaking for you and your follower. Jul 16, 2019

Alex Perfect

head to Water King chains (right and a tad lower of MF’s 35m chains). it’s a straighter line. you get more climbing and another roof. this is how it’s drawn in Dick’s guide. don’t skip out to Try Again chains—not sure why they are the recommended chains. Water King’s 2nd roof is another option. May 13, 2021