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Routes in South Park Slabs

Oh My God, They Drilled Kenny! T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
South Park The Movie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Jaaron and others, maybe others in the early '70s or '80s
Page Views: 1,532 total, 14/month
Shared By: Kevin Sainio on Oct 19, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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The Climb

The South Park Route is the primary line that goes straight up the center of the Slabs. Finding the climb is the crux. Have fun and come prepared for an adventure. The pitches described are using a 70 meter rope. You will be climbing out, so only take down with you what you want to climb out with.

Pitch one: Somewhat dirty and loose. Climb easy yet very run out ledges past an intermediate anchor (used for the rappel in or to belay with a 60m) to a massive, leaning, detached flake. Climb to the right of the flake past three bolts to a huge ledge with a two bolt anchor. This belay ledge is called The Broken Bit Saloon ledge (a great place to eat a bar and enjoy the scenery). 65 meters, 5.7 R, gear & 3 bolts.

Pitch two: There are two variations to this pitch.

Variation one: Climb the right slanting groove past several bolts which leads to another rap anchor, climb past this anchor, past many bolts to a two bolt anchor. Great climbing on great rock.

Variation two: Follow four bolts out left past a small roof to the intermediate anchor where it joins with variation one. 60 meters, 5.8, 13 bolts & gear.

To get back to your packs, climb a short 4th class pitch up and left on loose rock. The rap tree will be 100 feet to your right once you reach flat ground. Roping up is optional, but a fall would be deadly.

Location

To get to the base of the climb, you can either hike your way South around the cliff to the base or you can rappel the route. The rappel is easiest with two 70 meter ropes, but can also be done with a single 60. To start the rap, find the tree with a black rap anchor on it. If using two 70s, rap to The Broken Bit Saloon ledge. From the ledge, rap to the ground. If you are using a single 60m or 70m, you will have to make five raps using the intermediate anchors.

Protection

Small trad rack up to a number two Camalot, tri-cams, small nuts, runners and at least 13 draws for the second pitch. All anchors are bolted. Wear a helmet.

Photos

eli poss
Durango, Co
  5.8 R
eli poss   Durango, Co
  5.8 R
Although I wasn't looking very hard, I didn't find much opportunity for pro on the first pitch. The only gear I was able to get was a decent blue WC zero in a fracture. I would call the first 60m 5.5 or 5.6 R and the last 5 meters 5.7 G. I didn't lead it, but I thoroughly enjoyed the 2nd pitch minus the first 10-15 ft. I was loving the high friction smearing that look improbable at best, yet was actually pretty good. Also, I would highly suggest the walk around over rapping the route, because the walk around only takes like 10-15 min depending on your familiarity. I would definitely recommend this route, although not in the summer, as the flies made belaying a real bitch. Aug 12, 2015
Lou M.
Durango,Co.
Lou M.   Durango,Co.
Good route, did it probably back in '95. Pulled old bashie out on second 1/2 pitch. Still have it. If you can claim this, it's yours. Sep 30, 2011
Craig Childre
Lubbock, Texas
Craig Childre   Lubbock, Texas
Met some guys in the trailhead parking lot back in 2003 after hiking out from a climb up south west side of Windom. They acted like they were on some secret project keeping their destination secret, dodging all our inquiries about the crag spot. Nice to see some route info gotta check it out next visit. Jun 24, 2010
Kevin Sainio
Durango, CO
 
Kevin Sainio   Durango, CO
 
Thanks Jaaron for the updated info. Good work on a great route. Oct 20, 2008
Jaaron Mankins
Durango, CO
  5.8
Jaaron Mankins   Durango, CO
  5.8
Kevin - Nice description. We call this South Park the Movie, and the ledge that you call the alcove is actually the Broken Bit Saloon ledge! Highly recommended route. We started rockaneering up there around 95/96, and this was one of the first routes that we did. Hopefully this will get more people up there to enjoy these routes. Single 60m will suffice on this route. Oct 20, 2008