Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Jaaron and others, maybe others in the early '70s or '80s
Page Views: 1,748 total · 13/month
Shared By: Kevin Sainio on Oct 19, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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The Climb

The South Park Route is the primary line that goes straight up the center of the Slabs. Finding the climb is the crux. Have fun and come prepared for an adventure. The pitches described are using a 70 meter rope. You will be climbing out, so only take down with you what you want to climb out with.

Pitch one: Somewhat dirty and loose. Climb easy yet very run out ledges past an intermediate anchor (used for the rappel in or to belay with a 60m) to a massive, leaning, detached flake. Climb to the right of the flake past three bolts to a huge ledge with a two bolt anchor. This belay ledge is called The Broken Bit Saloon ledge (a great place to eat a bar and enjoy the scenery). 65 meters, 5.7 R, gear & 3 bolts.

Pitch two: There are two variations to this pitch.

Variation one: Climb the right slanting groove past several bolts which leads to another rap anchor, climb past this anchor, past many bolts to a two bolt anchor. Great climbing on great rock.

Variation two: Follow four bolts out left past a small roof to the intermediate anchor where it joins with variation one. 60 meters, 5.8, 13 bolts & gear.

To get back to your packs, climb a short 4th class pitch up and left on loose rock. The rap tree will be 100 feet to your right once you reach flat ground. Roping up is optional, but a fall would be deadly.

Location

To get to the base of the climb, you can either hike your way South around the cliff to the base or you can rappel the route. The rappel is easiest with two 70 meter ropes, but can also be done with a single 60. To start the rap, find the tree with a black rap anchor on it. If using two 70s, rap to The Broken Bit Saloon ledge. From the ledge, rap to the ground. If you are using a single 60m or 70m, you will have to make five raps using the intermediate anchors.

Protection

Small trad rack up to a number two Camalot, tri-cams, small nuts, runners and at least 13 draws for the second pitch. All anchors are bolted. Wear a helmet.

Photos