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Routes in c. Frog's Head - the Arch

Arc of a Diver T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Arch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Arch Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Baby T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Billy Shears T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Bloody Bush T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bloody Mary T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
City Lights T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Crusty Waffles T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Drunkard's Delight T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Easy Overhang T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Fetus T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Frog's Head T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jean T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kama Sutra T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Maria T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Maria Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Maria Redirect T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Morning After T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Night Fall T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Pas de Deux T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Patty Duke T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Precarious Perch T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rock and Brew T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Rusty Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rusty Trifle T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Scungilli T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Sixish T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Size Matters T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Son of Easy O T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sultana T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Sundown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trusty Rifle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Twisted Sister T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Uncle Rudy T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Wrist T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: P1: 1950s. P2: Dick Du Mais and John Stannard, 1972.
Page Views: 5,859 total, 53/month
Shared By: ESG Greene on Oct 19, 2008
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


163 Opinions

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Description

There is a bunch of great climbing on this route. The first and second pitch have a very different character and both are recommended.

The first pitch follows the large right facing corner all of the way to the GT ledge. This is fun and surprisingly steep and exposed climbing. Belay from one of several trees, depending on whether you're rapping or continuing upwards. (5.7 G/PG; a single 60m gets you down from here)

Pitch two continues up a right facing corner above the first pitch at the left end of the 5' roof for a few moves until you can traverse to the right (var), aiming diagonally up to the end of the roof. Continue up the path of least resistance to a tree above a detached block or to the top of the cliff.

Variation (5.7), courtesy of divnamite: Instead of traversing right under the roof, exit at the left side of the big roof, then move up right to a finger crack roof. Climb the roof to the top. It's a really nice variation.

Rappel from that tree (two ropes), walk ~100 yards right to the bolted rappel line over Ribs (single rope), or walk off left back to the Uberfall Descent.

Location

This is the large right facing corner about 100 ft left of the Arch. The route begins on the face right of the corner, on top of a ledge.

Protection

G/PG, standard Gunks rack, belay from trees on both pitches

Photos

Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
  5.7
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
  5.7
There's one committing 5.7 move on P2 that's very well protected, otherwise this climb would come in at 5.6 . The traverse isn't that bad and there's gear every 6-10 feet so very safe. Be mindful of the large, teetering blocks on the second pitch (and GT ledge).

At the top of P2 are TWO rap stations. The left would take you down to the anchor 20 feet shy of the top of pitch 1, then one 60M gets you to your packs / base of BB. The right hand rap station (larger tree) gets you to the GT ledge with a short traverse right to the Wrist anchor. Another 60M down. There is A LOT of loose rock on the ledges below that your rope WILL hit. Before throwing your rope please make sure anyone below knows you're coming down and there's loose rock. I was extremely careful managing the rope and still sent a few smaller rocks down. Apr 10, 2017
kenr  
I led P1 with Sharon (not P2 because she didn't feel ready to take on a traverse at 5.6 difficulty). We both thought it had lots of fun climbing on positive holds.

I'm not convinced there was any single move on P1 which reached full 5.5 difficulty (and I think Sharon would have noticed and commented if any move had hit full 5.5) -- but the difficulty was very sustained (though with suitably frequent rests for me) -- and the intimidation of the sideways-overhanging configuration was very sustained. So I think the 5.5 rating for P1 is justified.

I actually found a good place for a Camalot #3 -- not saying I needed it, but in the Gunks it's not often I find a use for it. Didn't find any use for my very small cams. Did find nice spots for wrapping slings around rock horns.

I belayed in the obvious tree in the corner. The rappel for P1 is 10-15 feet lower and say 15-20 feet out from the corner on a wide ledge. So I belayed/lowered Sharon back down to that ledge. Then ran the rope around the belay tree and used that to protect me as Sharon belayed me down-climbing to the ledge. Although I had led on double ropes, and we rappeled on doubles, it seemed pretty clear that a single 60-meter rope would have been sufficient for that lower rappel tree - (and I did not find any benefit to using for double ropes in leading P1 -- unlike P2). Aug 3, 2013
Simon Thompson
New Paltz, NY
  5.6
Simon Thompson   New Paltz, NY
  5.6
Fun climb. First pitch is fun 5.6 with a few questionable holds/blocks. P2 is a two-move wonder. The first move off the ledge was a bit weird/awkward for me. From there it's an easy(if you find the best way) traverse into a high-step/lieback crux then up much easier climbing to the top.

For both pitches, it is optimal to skip the first encountered belay/rap station. On the first pitch, continue up and left another 15 or 20 ft to another tree and belay there. At the top out on pitch two, do not go right to the first belay/rap tree(rapping from here has unpleasant consequences), but go up a few more feet to a rap station on a tree behind a protruding chockstone/flake. Nov 22, 2012
kenr  
P1 - My partner was leading, seemed like he went up quite a ways on the steep thin face before placing gear -- but maybe that was because he was psyched to place a big piece (#3 Camalot I sorta remember).

P2 - My partner (following the advice of previous comments - Thanks!) got the P1 belay high enough so that after going up the corner just a short ways I found P2 to be sort of a diagonal "straight" shot going up and right under the overhangs. No rope drag after placing my first piece out well away from the corner with a double runner on it.

Done the obvious way, I'd say the crux of P2 will seem pretty scary for an indoor gym climber not knowing what to do with no obvious footholds and no colored plastic. For an experienced outdoor climber accustomed to balancy friction steps, might seem more like 5.5.

I finished P2 at a ledge with three obvious pine trees. I used the high middle one for my P2 anchor, so I could belay my partner directly off the anchor above me. Both of the other trees had slings and rappel rings. The lower one to the north (climber's right) was more awkward to set up -- but we put our double ropes thru that one, and found that it gave us a clean vertical line to the ground (over the start of Wrist) -- after the rappel our ropes came down easily. (But I don't think that tree or line works with a single rope).

Some guidebooks say that both pitches are about 100ft, but seemed that if you stop P2 at the obvious rap trees, it's much less than that.

Fun climbing on both pitches. Jun 12, 2012
Ryan Abernathey
La Jolla, CA
 
Ryan Abernathey   La Jolla, CA
 
We accidentally picked up an extra Williams guide at the base of this climb on Thursday, April 5th. My apologies. PM me if this was your book and we will mail it back to you. Apr 9, 2012
Larry S
Easton, Pennsylvania
  5.5
Larry S   Easton, Pennsylvania
  5.5
I thought it was a bit easier than most 6's, like Moonlight or Frog's Head. Also, i found the belays to be a bit funky - do what Neil says above, it works out nicely. The second belay near the tree with the detached block. Rap from the tree or do a short little scramble 3rd pitch to the top and do 3 raps from bolted anchors on Ribs/Calisthenic. Mar 23, 2012
Neil Steinert
Hamilton
  5.6
Neil Steinert   Hamilton
  5.6
Lead this yesterday. If you're doing both pitches, it's definitely better to lead up past the rap station at the top right of P1 climbing over towards the Rusty Trifle belay. Then do the Bloody Bush belay for P2 from there. You definitely avoid drag that way. A bit tricky to protect the sketchy traverse on P2. All in all, great climb!! May 23, 2011
Greg Kuchyt
Richmond, VT
Greg Kuchyt   Richmond, VT
Building off what dolgio said, there is a solid placement above the crux so your second can pull through the crux on a top-rope and not worry about swinging. Mar 24, 2011
doligo
  5.6
doligo  
  5.6
Very nice climb. Traverse is awesome, but could be wet and slippery - one of those "big hands, no feet" traverses. Make sure to protect your second on the traverse. May 9, 2010
KG Lee
Princeton, NJ
KG Lee   Princeton, NJ
P1 is a fantastic corner/crack. The standard P1 belay can result in a lot of rope drag as the P2 does a zig-zag due to the traverse. This can be reduced by bypassing the tree at the P1 belay and going up to the next big tree ~15' higher up. Jun 14, 2009
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
 
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
 
P1 is happy fun jug pulling, with some face mixed in. P2 starts off easy, but, has a spicy traverse with not so good hands or feet. Jun 13, 2009
divnamite
New York, NY
  5.6 PG13
divnamite   New York, NY
  5.6 PG13
Excellent climb. P1 is steeper than expected, but still 5.5. And protections are there when you need them. P2 is the money pitch, a very fun traverse. Leader should protect the second, if second falls on traverse, you might have to lower the second to ledge and reclimb. Feb 4, 2009