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Die Maenner von Memmental 7a+
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 4 from 3
votes
Routes in Cheselenflue
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Blauer Käfer 6a+ S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Die Maenner von Memmental 7a+ S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Flaschengeist S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Kontinuum 6c+ S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Meteorit S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Pulsar 7a S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Roter Punkt 6c S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Technoparty S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Trockener Regen S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Viadukt S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 4,905 total · 26/month |
| Shared By: | Colin Winter on Oct 18, 2008 · Updates |
| Admins: | Dan Flynn, Mark P. |
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Description
A stellar route, defined by its wildly exposed, crux third pitch.
Pitch 1: 6b, up a steep slab on reasonably good holds.
Pitch 2: 6c+, continues up the slab to its end and then into steeper terrain above on good holds. There is a distinct crux move just above the end of the slabby section.
Pitch 3: 7a+, from a comfortable ledge (anchor shared with the Blauer Kaefer), the route traverses right, onto an overhanging slab of rock that juts out into space. On the slab, the line continues up and to the right. The holds are all there and the moves are fairly straightforward, but it is pumpy as hell, and the exposure is extraordinary.
Pitch 4: 6c+ 1 p.a., vertical, compact rock with very small, sharp holds defines this pitch. The one point of aid is fairly early on, and the difficulty of the pitch comes in the couple of meters that follow, on very thin, very sharp holds, before traversing up and right on somewhat easier ground.
Pitch 5: 6c+, another good pitch, again on vertical sharp rock, slightly less compact and more featured than the previous pitch.
Pitch 1: 6b, up a steep slab on reasonably good holds.
Pitch 2: 6c+, continues up the slab to its end and then into steeper terrain above on good holds. There is a distinct crux move just above the end of the slabby section.
Pitch 3: 7a+, from a comfortable ledge (anchor shared with the Blauer Kaefer), the route traverses right, onto an overhanging slab of rock that juts out into space. On the slab, the line continues up and to the right. The holds are all there and the moves are fairly straightforward, but it is pumpy as hell, and the exposure is extraordinary.
Pitch 4: 6c+ 1 p.a., vertical, compact rock with very small, sharp holds defines this pitch. The one point of aid is fairly early on, and the difficulty of the pitch comes in the couple of meters that follow, on very thin, very sharp holds, before traversing up and right on somewhat easier ground.
Pitch 5: 6c+, another good pitch, again on vertical sharp rock, slightly less compact and more featured than the previous pitch.
Location
Pass by the meteorit sector and traverse up and to the right past a giant recess in the wall (there is often a waterfall here). Follow a clear trail up to the base of the rock. The start of the climb is marked in yellow, just a few meters to the right of the Blauer Kaefer route.
With regards to the abseil, take note of the comments to the area!
With regards to the abseil, take note of the comments to the area!
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