PRINT: Rock Climb Plain Kipper, Little Cottonwood Canyon

Plain Kipper

5.9, Trad,

Avg: 1.8 from 4 votes
FA: Mike Tea, Jeff Pauline 1987
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwo… > Great White Icicle Area

Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.

Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.

Read More:

saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…

SLCA and AF recreational leased area on LDS Church land

The Rub

Slab up through three bolts, place some gear on the left, and run it up to a pin, then up into the trees. Hand drilled on lead. Maybe a little runout as the leader was tired of drilling.

Location

The slab to the right of the base of the GWI.

The Gear

3 bolts, a pin, and some gear

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

There's nothing like Plain Kipper[ed snacks]. Sean on the slab.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Arie
Smog Lake City, UT

Surprisingly quality- no FA quality-creep here. Loose rubble at the top is a moderate threat- so stash packs and belayers appropriately and bring some extra tat for the aging tree anchor. Jun 25, 2013

Tea

5.9

Contrary to incorrect info in the new Granite guide…this route did not bolt over an existing climb. Sep 12, 2016

Sir Camsalot
thankgodchickenhead, Ut

Fun. Staying right of the bolts (where all the lichen has been climbed off) seemed harder than 5.9. Jul 6, 2019