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Routes in The Sugar Cube

Hypocrisy's Promise S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Match-Up Left S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Match-Up, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: RMWright, Bert Honea, Fall 2008
Page Views: 53 total, 0/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Oct 17, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

HP starts off a block on the edge of the west face. A short, crimpy start to jugs gives way to solid edge climbing as the route winds left to the arete proper. I had originally installed the route with the intent of knocking it off at the first good opportunity along with the other two routes on the crag. A TNB session at the gym left me with a ripped rotator cuff and fully dislocated shoulder, and no climbing for a while as the shoulder repairs. Bert snagged the FFA without any knowledge of my injury. I guess that's life when we go 'red-tagless". HP is okay, largely very solid, a wee bit devious, and sets up a good TR for the hard stuff on the left.

Location

Furthest right of three routes on the West arete of TSC.

Protection

Ten draws and a rope. Double bolt anchor at the top.

Photos

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Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
 
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
 
Running this route again in September, I'd lean toward 5.11- for the opening sequence. Sep 28, 2009