PRINT: Rock Climb Made in the Shade, Smith Rock

Made in the Shade

5.12c, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),

Avg: 3 from 1 vote
FA: unknown
Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (n) Snake Rock

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures Details

JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:

ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!

There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…

Description

This route is in the shade pretty much all day. Start by making the crux moves off small crimps to the first bolt. Cheater stones are usually stacked to make the reach to the starting holds a bit easier. (Moves off the ground are doable using a small undercling and shallow pocket, your choice) After reaching the starting holds, make a few hard moves to get to the first bolt. After you reach the first bolt, the climbing turns much easier.

Location

Right of the Cling on Dihedral.

Protection

Bolts, Chain Anchor, Stick Clip if you want to be protected through the crux.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Made in the Shade is on the left side of the arete

Made in the Shade and Split Image

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Dylan Colon
Eugene, OR

Does anyone know if the arete of Split Image is considered off, especially for the opening boulder problem? May 21, 2015

Micah Klesick
Charlotte, NC

The opening boulder problem seems a bit harder than V6 to me, closer to V7? Powerful moves on small crimps, especially when starting from the ground with the little undercling knob and small pocket, and deadpointing to the "starting" crimps. Good finish, though no pushover either.
As far as the arete being off, I didn't really feel like reaching over to the arete was really a viable option anyway, the way I worked it... Jul 31, 2015