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Rule the World
5.11b/c,
Sport, 120 ft (36 m),
Avg: 2.8 from 24
votes
FA: Clay Watson, Dallen Ward
Utah
> Wasatch Range
> Central Wasatch
> Little Cottonwo…
> Tanners Gulch
> Diff'rent Strokes But…
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
Not a friction climb, this has actually has holds on it. This climbs the arete to the right of Mrs Garrett, using edges, jugs and rails on both sides. I like long moves on big holds.
The face directly in the bolt line without the arete feels like a completely different climb and is worth doing even if it is a little contrived. Getting into the dihedral and onto the face is one crux and the other is up on that face. It is letter grade harder and you want to preclip the second bolt on that arete as its a more difficult clip and you'll deck if you blow it.
Location
Right of Mrs Garrett.
Protection
Use the fixed pins and bolts leading to the Mrs Garrett dihedral. Then clip bolts (I think 11-12 total?) on the right side of the arete placed where the rock was the best.
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Wasatch Back, UT