Can't Touch This
Avg: 3.3 from 4 votes
Routes in Pipeline Wall
|Ame's Way S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Black and Tan S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Can't Touch This S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Contortionist S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Crystal Cruise S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Crystal Squeeze S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Dangler S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Dreams of Ambition S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|High Motivation S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Rock Cobbler S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Rocksteady T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Shark Skin Leisure Suit S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Skylight Arete S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Whip or Will S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Whipping Post S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Type:||Sport, 170 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Bruce Eriksen & Paul Emrick|
|Page Views:||176 total, 2/month|
|Shared By:||Bingman on Oct 14, 2008|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
Open with restrictions - Private Property Details
The Idarado Mine owns large portions of land, including the access road, that they have been kind enough to maintain partially and allow the public to use. Obey the rules and keep a low profile to ensure continued access.
DescriptionThis route is two pitches.
P1: 5.9 (80 ft.) Start in the groove in the arete past the crux of the pitch about 15 feet up, then enjoyable climbing all the way to the first anchor station.
P2: 5.11- (70 ft.) From the anchors this climb breaks up and to the right under the obvious, imposing roof. The crux is very well protected, and the fall looks clean, but it definitely takes some guts to launch into it as you traverse somewhat blindly out on the roof and have the best exposure on the pipeline wall. After moving up through the roof a bit, there is a hanging chain. Clip your draw to the end of this to help with drag, and continue up and back to the left on somewhat desperate holds. Once you've taken care of the roof (phew) - enjoy another 15 or 20 feet of 5.9 to the chains.
Descent: Rappel the route.
I combined these pitches as one with a 70m rope and would not recommend anyone do this. In spite of extending a few pieces, the drag was pretty bad during the crux, and awful at the end of the route.
ProtectionBolts to anchors. Maybe bring a 24" or two for the last pitch if you really hate drag - you'd be fine with just draws as well.
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