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Routes in Pipeline Wall

Ame's Way S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Black and Tan S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Can't Touch This S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Contortionist S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Crystal Cruise S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crystal Squeeze S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dangler S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dreams of Ambition S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
High Motivation S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rock Cobbler S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rocksteady T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Shark Skin Leisure Suit S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Skylight Arete S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whip or Will S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Whipping Post S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 170 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Bruce Eriksen & Paul Emrick
Page Views: 176 total, 2/month
Shared By: Bingman on Oct 14, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Open with restrictions - Private Property Details

Description

This route is two pitches.

P1: 5.9 (80 ft.) Start in the groove in the arete past the crux of the pitch about 15 feet up, then enjoyable climbing all the way to the first anchor station.

P2: 5.11- (70 ft.) From the anchors this climb breaks up and to the right under the obvious, imposing roof. The crux is very well protected, and the fall looks clean, but it definitely takes some guts to launch into it as you traverse somewhat blindly out on the roof and have the best exposure on the pipeline wall. After moving up through the roof a bit, there is a hanging chain. Clip your draw to the end of this to help with drag, and continue up and back to the left on somewhat desperate holds. Once you've taken care of the roof (phew) - enjoy another 15 or 20 feet of 5.9 to the chains.

Descent: Rappel the route.

I combined these pitches as one with a 70m rope and would not recommend anyone do this. In spite of extending a few pieces, the drag was pretty bad during the crux, and awful at the end of the route.

Protection

Bolts to anchors. Maybe bring a 24" or two for the last pitch if you really hate drag - you'd be fine with just draws as well.

Location

This is the 8th route down the pipeline. Around the corner from High Motivation, on the arete to the East of the Skylight Arete.

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