PRINT: Rock Climb Personal Jihad, Little Cottonwood Canyon

Personal Jihad

5.8 X, Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches,

Avg: 1 from 1 vote
FA: Tyler Phillips & Luke Douglas 11/04/07
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwo… > Tanners Gulch > Hidden Heavenly Slab

Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.

Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.

Read More:

saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…

SLCA and AF recreational leased area on LDS Church land

Description

Start from the optional 2nd pitch belay on 6 Ways From Sunday

Cruise straight up obvious weakness slotting anything that will hold a fall (slim). Very runout (5.7-ish) climbing brings one to a TCU placement, from the placement climb up and right to the big shelf. Aim for the lonely bolt above this and traverse right toward the 6 ways From Sunday 3rd pitch belay. (one bolt that can be backed up)

Location

From the sub-belay on 6 Ways From Sunday climb straight up the dihedral.
(see

)

You need 2 ropes if rappelling Indie Dog Memorial (or a 70m w/ slight down climb) or a 60m if traversing over to the 6 Way From Sunday raps.

Protection

TCU’S and a #1 camalot, QD.