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Routes in The Slabs

Broken Drum, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Panty Liner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stud Puppet T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Whirling Dervish T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: Gary Wright
Page Views: 60 total, 1/month
Shared By: Bingman on Oct 14, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a great route with a challenging sequence, followed by a very hard move, and then easy climbing to the chains. The climb goes up a face to the left of a gigantic dihedral (or in the dihedral, which seems to make more sense), and then it traverses left through steep climbing to a small roof that leads left. The climbing below this roof is technical but well-protected by a bolt on the face.

The crux of the entire route is a very difficult move where you attempt to exit the roof out left while on non-existent and somewhat slippery feet - lunging for a Thank God, big flake. It was a very difficult, desperate, and dynamic move for me at 5'10".

Location

This route is to the right of the broken drum, starting on the other (right) side of the pillar. Look for a distinctive sharp looking roof that tapers off to the left. Route finishes on the same chains as the Broken Drum.

Protection

All the hard moves are protected by bolts or pins. Bring a SR - it all protects well. It uses the same anchors as Broken Drum.

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