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Routes in Solstice Tower
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Bowie's in Space T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Everythings Better With Shredder T C2 |
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Jersey Girl T C1+ |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 190 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Andy Roberts, Ted Rummings 6/21/99 |
| Page Views: | 994 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | A. Roberts on Oct 13, 2008 |
| Admins: | slim, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Description [Edit]
The tower actually has four detached summits. We climbed up the middle of the tall tower on the right. On the southeast side. (facing away from the river)
Pitch 1. Climb up the perfect splitter crack, from .5 camalot to #1. C1 for me, or 5.11 or harder. 110' ending under a roof.
Pitch 2. Aid out the overhang to the left and follow the crack through the steep headwall on less than perfect gear. C2, again maybe possible to free. The summit is almost perfectly flat and square.
Pitch 1. Climb up the perfect splitter crack, from .5 camalot to #1. C1 for me, or 5.11 or harder. 110' ending under a roof.
Pitch 2. Aid out the overhang to the left and follow the crack through the steep headwall on less than perfect gear. C2, again maybe possible to free. The summit is almost perfectly flat and square.
Location [Edit]
This was the first route done on the formation. It climbs a splitter up the middle of the 3rd summit from the west. On the South side (facing away from the river). There is a short scramble at the bottom to reach the start of the crack.
Protection [Edit]
3 sets of cams including (2) #00, #0, #1 metolious.
The are fixed anchors on top. 1 Double rope (60M)rappel.
The are fixed anchors on top. 1 Double rope (60M)rappel.
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