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Walk on the Mild Side

5.8+, Sport, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 2.9 from 27 votes
FA: Ward Smith, Chris Smith, Peter Lataille.
Maine > -Clifton Crags > Eagle Bluff > 04. Main Face

Description

Classic. Follow the right traversing line of bolts from the far right end of wheaties ledge. Follow the bolted traverse out right to a pleasent ledge, move right until anchors. Continue up a steep face past an assortment of bolts, to a dike. Continue up the dike to a two bolt anchor.

Location

Begins at the far right end of wheaties ledge, and traverses right for a large portion of the steep face.

Protection

All bolts

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Me on pitch 1.
[Hide Photo] Me on pitch 1.
Looking down from the P1 belay, this gives a good perspective of how far out you traverse.
[Hide Photo] Looking down from the P1 belay, this gives a good perspective of how far out you traverse.
Looking down pitch 2.
[Hide Photo] Looking down pitch 2.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Matthew Swartz
Denver, CO
 
[Hide Comment] This route is actually called "Walk on the Mild Side" Apr 30, 2009
T. Moon
 
[Hide Comment] Excellent climb with great position and exposure. Jul 13, 2009
Andre Bruchez
Philadelphia, PA
  5.8+
[Hide Comment] Routefinding for this was very interesting. There were a handful of bolts available for the traverse. I definitely traversed too far right before making my way upwards at first - but eventually figured out which anchors to finish up at and the climb was cruiser after that. The second pitch was the $$$.

Also, a 70m rope just barely got us all the way down to a ledge big enough to walk off without having to do two rappels.

All in all, fun climb without any distinct crux. Adventurous 2-pitch sport route with good exposure and some interesting and thoughtful climbing. Would happily do it again Aug 24, 2021
Jason Bowden
 
[Hide Comment] My first lead in over 20+ years. Great climb. Bit of exposure with fun moves. Look forward to repeat. Sep 2, 2021
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
[Hide Comment] In 20 yrs, 5.8+ ! May the force be with you ! Sep 2, 2021