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Routes in Mount Huntington

Brother Laurence T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Once is Enough T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Perennial T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Southern Migration T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
no name T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
unnamed T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Bill Keiler, Jack Dorsey 26 July 2008
Page Views: 1,606 total · 14/month
Shared By: Bill Keiler on Oct 13, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Jonathan Steitzer

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Description

Scramble up and right for 100’ to a ledge with a Piton belay.

Pitch 1: Follow the line of bolts up and over a steep bulge to a clean slab above. (5.9) 80’. 7 bolts.

Pitch 2: Climb up a smooth slab for 100’ heading for a left facing corner. Climb to the right of the corner and over three overlaps to a tree belay up and left. (5.7) 160’. 4 bolts, 2 pins and small cams.

Pitch 3: Face climb up the shallow right facing corner to a rest then climb a slab to the left up to a bolt. Clip two more bolts up and over a small overhang (harder for shorter climbers) to an anchor straight up. (5.6) 90’. 4 bolts, small to medium cams.

Pitch 4: From the belay. Head right to a large left pointing flake. Climb straight up with a mix of face and slab climbing until you see a pair of ring anchors just below and right of the final block. Most climbers will prefer to rap from the ring anchors. However it is possible to mantel to the right of this block and climb up into the trees to reach the top of the block. (5.8) 120’. 2 ring anchors, 4 bolts, 2 Pins and a long sling for the flake.

Location

Approach from the bottom toe of the main cliff.

Protection

Mostly Bolts and Pins with some small to medium cams through out.

Photos

Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
"To tell the truth, the first ascent went in the early 80's with a slight difference in difficulty on the lower slab (easier) because without bolts the mountain dictated my and then later our ascent direction, reasonability. It was climbed by rope to the top after it was scouted by myself up to the midway tree ledge free solo. I literally, solely got to know the lower half area of this route and more than one way up to the midway tree ledge. At this ledge the first time I moved down right to do the free solo of 'Brother Lawrence' and I free soloed this route more than once.
I always had trouble recruiting partners to climb here and hence rarely went to the top of the cliff free soloing first ascents.
Bill highly doubts my free soloing ascent of 'Perennial' and I'm not claiming to have free soloed any exactness to these pitches and I'm not disclaiming that I intersected these lower pitches. After all there's a lot of slab here. Bill knew and did leave out the fact that in this area where 'Perennial' was bolted is an old climbing area of one of my nameless ascents. To me this will always be an area of this cliff that is an old free soloing climbing area.
I waited to comment until I returned to the cliff because seeing it became remembering what and where exactly I climbed on it free solo."

Comment by bradley white on October 16th, 2011 5:42 pm Jul 20, 2012
bradley white   Bend
Thanks Mark, I don't remember the Crawford to Franconia barefoot hike and probably because it didn't hurt my feet. I did a lot of barefoot bushwhacking and the north side of Mt. Osceola hike down to the Tripoli Rd. on all those rocks was painful. The poncho was a full length anorak actually and the ridge was on Mt. Jefferson. The reason for staying out all night was because of the wind. i was comfortably warm. the upper pitches from midway tree ledge were not soloed, only Brother Lawrence was repeated. Tom Bowker and I led to the giant pine prow on the top. on the slab beginning of the day, Tom rolled off my great pro by text book placement in no pro reality, the leaning rock. i did better at pro on the upper level and cleared more rock. only did it once. other big rock that was sent off, broke and friends visiting soon afterward got a worthy smokey quartz crystal from the rock I trundled. finders keepers. Oct 21, 2011
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
You have done some amazing adventuring, Bradley. I salute your spirit. Tom Bowker was relating a few stories when we were climbing the other day. One was when you intentionally spent a night in a storm on a ridge under a poncho and had to cut it from the ice in the morning to free yourself, and another how you bushwhacked in barefeet from Crawford to Franconia Notch I believe. From the sound of it, you have done more bold exploring of NH than any one else I can think of. I don't doubt your solo travels on this climb. Oct 16, 2011
Bill Keiler  
 
Perennial is on the right cliff. On the trail up make sure you take the right at the intersection. Perennial doesnt go through the overlap of southern migration but up the blank face 30 feet to the right. May 2, 2009
Luke W.
Prescott
Luke W.   Prescott
Looks great. Id love to get up there and check it out. Feb 25, 2009
Bill Keiler  
 
I agree, but, I also highly doubt that anyone would have ever soloed any of the pitches. Feb 25, 2009
Luke W.
Prescott
Luke W.   Prescott
Hard to believe the FA goes in 08? Feb 21, 2009

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