Pumpkin Spice
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British PG13
Type: | Trad, 75 ft (23 m) |
FA: | Jeff Mekolites and Johanna Wise, October 2008 |
Page Views: | 1,358 total · 8/month |
Shared By: | Jeff Mekolites on Oct 13, 2008 |
Admins: | Stonyman Killough, Luke Cornejo, saxfiend |
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Description
Slab climbing over two short roofs with very thin gear.
Slab your way up to the lower roof placing all the gear you can. (I placed a grey alien about halfway up to the roof and a small nut slotted behind a odd flake under the roof.) Pull the roof using a some rounded edges. After pulling up, there is a slot for another small nut. Continue up to a good ledge with bomber gear. Work up and slightly right past a rail then more good gear. Thin moves but solid moves lead towards the second roof. Once at the roof, another gear placement can be found. Pull the roof and make a quick dash to the anchors.
This route can easily be TR'ed after leading W.R., but it's also a very sastifying lead.
Slab your way up to the lower roof placing all the gear you can. (I placed a grey alien about halfway up to the roof and a small nut slotted behind a odd flake under the roof.) Pull the roof using a some rounded edges. After pulling up, there is a slot for another small nut. Continue up to a good ledge with bomber gear. Work up and slightly right past a rail then more good gear. Thin moves but solid moves lead towards the second roof. Once at the roof, another gear placement can be found. Pull the roof and make a quick dash to the anchors.
This route can easily be TR'ed after leading W.R., but it's also a very sastifying lead.
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