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Routes in Desperado Wall

Black Slabbeth T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Brain Damage T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Breaking The Law T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Granite Man T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hocus Focus T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Holy Slabbeth, The T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Into The Void T,S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jail Break T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Metal Meltdown T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Reckless Criminal T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Return Of Grunge, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Ride The Lightning T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Slabbath Bloody Slabbath T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Slabbra Cadabbra T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sticks & Stones T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Thunderstruck T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Tim Snyder, Nathan Brown, Lee Carter
Page Views: 2,795 total, 25/month
Shared By: nbrown on Oct 12, 2008
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Temporarily closed. Details

Description

"...My fingers grip with fear, what am I doing here? Flash before my eyes, now it's time to die." Okay, this may a bit too intense to be an accurate description of the route, but it is an excerpt from the tune in which the route was named after. Although this line is safe, it does have the potential for some good air time.

This route is easily one of the best and most sustained single pitch face routes of this grade at the Bald. It is slightly harder than "Thunderstruck" just to the left.

Undercling the loose flake feature to reach a good hold and clip the high bolt. Move right and mantel into a hole feature and clip 2nd bolt. Crimp (crux?) to the small ledge and get some gear. Step right and move up to a good hold and 3rd bolt. Move up and slightly left of bolt on thin terrain to a long reach that gains a good ledge. Move right and mantel up onto ledge to 4th bolt. Continue up a little ways on easier climbing past horizontals (gear) to the last bolt. Make slopey moves up past the bolt before trending out left past some small gear and finally the anchor.

Location

Just right of Thunderstruck, up on the Lightning ledge. These bolt hangers are painted grey.

Protection

Medium sized rack. It is possible to use up to a #3 camelot in a slot above the 3rd bolt.

Photos

nbrown
western NC
 
nbrown   western NC
 
This is one of the best face climbs in hickory nut gorge (along with a ton of others on this wall), too bad this crag remains closed...

A great friend belaying the ''pirate''- the late Lee Carter. Nov 1, 2013