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Routes in Independence Gully

Dependence S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Double Your Pleasure T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
End of Independence T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Independence T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Independence Day T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: John Pancost?
Page Views: 549 total · 5/month
Shared By: scotthsu on Oct 11, 2008
Admins: Mike Howard, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. Details

Description

Climb a steep face (protected by 2 bolts); step right (crux) a little ways above the 2nd bolt, then up a fun wide arete with big holds to chains.

Note: Independence Day is the name of the route in Dennis Jackson's Rock Climbing New Mexico (2006), and Whodunit? is the name given in Jay Foley's Taos Rock (2005). (Edit 10/18/08: see comments below for clarification.)

Location

This is the leftmost route in Independence Gully. Scramble up the gully a ways, and look for 2 bolts on your left, which marks the start of the route.

Protection

Standard rack of stoppers and cams to 3" plus 6-8 double length runners or quickdraws. Gear required above the first 2 bolts. Stoppers and small/medium cams are especially useful.

Photos

Bowe Ellis
Taos, NM
  5.9-
Bowe Ellis   Taos, NM
  5.9-
It's possible to place a bomber nut about 6' above the 2nd bolt, to protect the traverse moves. Mar 31, 2013
scotthsu
Los Alamos, NM
 
scotthsu   Los Alamos, NM
 
William, Jay, thanks for the clarifications! I have made a slight edit above. Oct 18, 2008
Jfoley  
What are the Chances??? I climbed the FA of the 5.11 bolted route and the crack to the right 15 years ago or so. Also on July 4th!! Hence the name Dependence(bolted) and Independence(crack).I think John Pancost among others had previously climbed the blunt arete to the left of these two routes. Oct 17, 2008
William Penner
The 505
William Penner   The 505
The Whodunit listed in the Foley guide refers to who put in the first two bolts, rather than calling the route Whodunit.

In the interest of full disclosure, I placed those bolts ground-up on lead as well as those on the route to the right. I had never noticed anyone else on the line after 16 years of climbing at TP and had not seen it listed in a previous guidebook. I bolted it on July 4th (thus the name) and did not know it was a previously established route, I just knew it got nice afternoon shade when most other spots bake.

Interestingly, I now see some folks on the route. This is not an argument for convenience retro-bolting; if I had known it was climbed previously, I would have refrained from bolting. Dennis Jackson knew who bolted the route(s) because he asked me about it prior to putting out the guidebook.

The name is one I gave to Dennis, the actual first ascensionist should give the correct name. Oddly, I did not know that the other routes were called Dependence and Independence before I called this Independence Day.

I hope most folks enjoy the climbing,

William Oct 17, 2008