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Routes in Desperado Wall

Black Slabbeth T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Brain Damage T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Breaking The Law T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Granite Man T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hocus Focus T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Holy Slabbeth, The T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Into The Void T,S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jail Break T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Metal Meltdown T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Reckless Criminal T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Return Of Grunge, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Ride The Lightning T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Slabbath Bloody Slabbath T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Slabbra Cadabbra T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sticks & Stones T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Thunderstruck T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, Sport, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Ed Williams,Shannon Millsapps, Tim Snyder
Page Views: 51 total, 0/month
Shared By: gneiss pirate on Oct 11, 2008
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Temporarily closed. Details

Description

There is a story behind the name. Ask ole Ed. He will give it up.

Located at the end of "The Holy Slabbeth" ledge at a pine tree and up and right of "Brain Damage".
Move up and left from the tree placing small gear in a right facing slot. Make delicate and hard moves(crux) past 2 bolts to a great horizontal. Climb face protecting a hollow flake to a roof. Gear here. Pull the roof and climb past 3 bolts(5.11a) following the path of least resistance to a stance with small gear. Move right then up to a 2 bolt anchor.

2nd pitch. Ed Williams, Shannon Millsap

Move up and trending left to eventually join the 2nd pitch of Hocus Focus. Finish at the Hocus Focus anchor.

Natural gear.

Protection

P1 5 bolts, double c3s or tcus to orange. Camalots to green. Possible small tri-cams.

P2 Same as above with camalots to yellow.

Photos

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Nice long, interesting route. The first pitch has great variety and personally feels harder than Brain Damage. I would call it 11b anyday. Apr 5, 2009
nbrown
western NC
 
nbrown   western NC
 
Cool route with a good name. The climbing on the upper part is excellent. The 2nd bolt is still a spinner though... Oct 20, 2008