Type: Trad, Sport, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Ed Williams,Shannon Millsapps, Tim Snyder
Page Views: 70 total · 1/month
Shared By: gneiss pirate on Oct 11, 2008
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route

4 Opinions

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There is a story behind the name. Ask ole Ed. He will give it up.

Located at the end of "The Holy Slabbeth" ledge at a pine tree and up and right of "Brain Damage".
Move up and left from the tree placing small gear in a right facing slot. Make delicate and hard moves(crux) past 2 bolts to a great horizontal. Climb face protecting a hollow flake to a roof. Gear here. Pull the roof and climb past 3 bolts(5.11a) following the path of least resistance to a stance with small gear. Move right then up to a 2 bolt anchor.

2nd pitch. Ed Williams, Shannon Millsap

Move up and trending left to eventually join the 2nd pitch of Hocus Focus. Finish at the Hocus Focus anchor.

Natural gear.


P1 5 bolts, double c3s or tcus to orange. Camalots to green. Possible small tri-cams.

P2 Same as above with camalots to yellow.


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originally WNC, now Broomfield
nbrown   originally WNC, now Broomfield
Cool route with a good name. The climbing on the upper part is excellent. The 2nd bolt is still a spinner though... Oct 20, 2008
Nice long, interesting route. The first pitch has great variety and personally feels harder than Brain Damage. I would call it 11b anyday. Apr 5, 2009