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Underdog

5.12b/c R, Trad, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 4 from 6 votes
FA: Porter Jarrard
N Carolina > 3. Piedmont Region > Moore's Wall > Moore's Wall (R… > Fire Wall

Description

One of the best pitches I've climbed anywhere. It has an amazing variety of movement, unbeatable position, and plenty of spice. Follow the splitter looking crack to a funky move and a stance. Blast up the obtuse arete feature past some bolts to another stance below the slab. Plug some bogus gear and commit to the 5.11R slab moves, gaining a curiously placed bolt after the buisness. Clip a 2-pin anchor as pro and continue past it to a very steep and cryptic roof section (crux). Finally, fire up the overhung headwall past a bolt and some gear to the anchor. Classic.

Location

Fire Wall

Protection

gear, bolts, and a few fixed pins. no large gear needed up high. bring a stopper to cinch a hangerless bolt about 1/3 of the way up. RPs are also useful. There is an anchor but it needs new nylon. Bring something to back it up (small cam).

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Stu on the 5.11R slab
[Hide Photo] Stu on the 5.11R slab
Big, clean whips onto the bolt after the lower crux. Photo: Neil Rankin
[Hide Photo] Big, clean whips onto the bolt after the lower crux. Photo: Neil Rankin
Greg Loomis on the opening face moves of Underdog
[Hide Photo] Greg Loomis on the opening face moves of Underdog
Greg Loomis above the gear on the 5.11 R section
[Hide Photo] Greg Loomis above the gear on the 5.11 R section
Greg Loomis Underdog
[Hide Photo] Greg Loomis Underdog

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Chandler Van Schaack
Pine, CO
  5.12b/c R
[Hide Comment] Sweet picture dude! Who done took it? Oct 13, 2008
Ben Sachs
Las Vegas, NV
  5.12b
[Hide Comment] Shannon Millsaps, from the ledge above Midlife Crisis Oct 14, 2008
Christopher Barlow
  5.12c R
[Hide Comment] Underdog now has a solid anchor of two pins and a fixed nut, with all steel cable/biners for lowering. The second pin in the roof is also back in place, making the crux decently well protected. Give it a go! Feb 15, 2009
[Hide Comment] Underdog bolt after crux on slab was placed by me on lead hanging on a hook on the good edge below it. Fun hauling up all that bolting gear, not wanting to whip on those marginal nuts. Underdog links Go Dog Go to the finish of Wild Life for a direct line. -porter Mar 17, 2009
jgallagher Gallagher
Lewisville, NC
[Hide Comment] Just for the record that second pin in the roof is no longer there. There is only one. That being said this is the best pitch at moores imo. Feb 9, 2012