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Routes in Terrible Twos Wall

Left and Right Practice Cracks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pussy Bolt T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sharon's crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Soapstone Dihedral T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Terrible Two's T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Thinner T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: Ron Olevsky
Page Views: 832 total, 8/month
Shared By: josh holmes on Oct 10, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Classic straight-in fingers to ring-locks splitter, with the occasional thin hand jam. The crux is the first bit, with painful finger stacks and bad feet. Those hard, painful locks eventually give way to good thin-hand jams in pods that lead to a small bulge and the anchor.

Location

Drive a little over a 1/2 mile up Grand Wash and park on the south side of the road. This is the splitter crack just right of the "Z" crack when looking north from the road. Anchors are visible from the road.

Protection

1 .4 camalot, 4 .5 camalots, 5 .75 camalots. you could place a #1 camalot at the bulge. Big chain connecting bolts and a drilled angle.

Photos

bvb
 
bvb  
 
Fantastic splitter, crux down low. Anchor has gotta be 30 years old now, might be smart to beef it up or replace it altoghter. Feb 3, 2013