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South End
5.7,
TR, 30 ft (9 m),
Avg: 2.3 from 10
votes
FA: unknown
Massachusetts
> Eastern, MA
> Den Rock Park
> Petroleum Base Buttress
Description
This fun climb follows the slanting hand-sized crack around an arete, then follows that arete to the top of the FK buttress. Beginning at the obvious right-angling crack on the right side of the FK Face, strenuously layback the crack until you are around the corner and safely on a ledge. Continue up the crimpy face, or, for a more exciting alternative, follow the arete proper to the top, as for Nob Job.
Location
This is just left of Petroleum Based, right of the City Dump overhang.
Protection
The crack would take good gear, but almost all protection ends at the ledge. Better to toprope this one.
[Hide Photo] A schematic showing the approximate finale of South End (5.7) on Petroleum-Based Buttress, according to Boston Rocks 2nd ed. FK Face is around the corner to the left.
[Hide Comment] The bottom of this is an EXCELLENT bouldering problem. Pull the overhanging crack, then keep going up (right) to the ledge and top out on the easy ramp. Very cool. I believe the climb itself goes straight up the arete, for which you will want a rope unless you are very brave and good!!!
Oct 6, 2013
Salt Lake