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South End

5.7, TR, 30 ft (9 m),  Avg: 2.3 from 10 votes
FA: unknown
Massachusetts > Eastern, MA > Den Rock Park > Petroleum Base Buttress

Description

This fun climb follows the slanting hand-sized crack around an arete, then follows that arete to the top of the FK buttress. Beginning at the obvious right-angling crack on the right side of the FK Face, strenuously layback the crack until you are around the corner and safely on a ledge. Continue up the crimpy face, or, for a more exciting alternative, follow the arete proper to the top, as for Nob Job.

Location

This is just left of Petroleum Based, right of the City Dump overhang.

Protection

The crack would take good gear, but almost all protection ends at the ledge. Better to toprope this one.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

A schematic showing the approximate finale of South End (5.7) on Petroleum-Based Buttress, according to Boston Rocks 2nd ed. FK Face is around the corner to the left.
[Hide Photo] A schematic showing the approximate finale of South End (5.7) on Petroleum-Based Buttress, according to Boston Rocks 2nd ed. FK Face is around the corner to the left.
The start of the route on KF Face.
[Hide Photo] The start of the route on KF Face.
Oliver McMahon climbing the squeeze chimney to left of FK Face.
[Hide Photo] Oliver McMahon climbing the squeeze chimney to left of FK Face.
Alan Jenkins working South End.
[Hide Photo] Alan Jenkins working South End.
Christopher Lane working South End.
[Hide Photo] Christopher Lane working South End.
Start of South End, on FK Face, showing the giant crack leaning to the right.
[Hide Photo] Start of South End, on FK Face, showing the giant crack leaning to the right.
Start of the route.
[Hide Photo] Start of the route.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Russ Keane
Salt Lake
[Hide Comment] The bottom of this is an EXCELLENT bouldering problem. Pull the overhanging crack, then keep going up (right) to the ledge and top out on the easy ramp. Very cool. I believe the climb itself goes straight up the arete, for which you will want a rope unless you are very brave and good!!! Oct 6, 2013