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Captain Caveman
5.8- YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 14 ZA VS 4c British
Avg: 1.8 from 13
votes
Routes in Minions of Chaos Area
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And Son T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Bedlam in Bedrock T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Captain Caveman T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Casa Bonita T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Minions of Chaos T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Towelie S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Tyler Phillips & Luke Douglas 06' |
| Page Views: | 1,394 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Tyler Phillips on Oct 10, 2008 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
P1. Start directly behind the rubble strewn boulder. Climb up clipping a bolt, hand sized cams bring you through the roof and to a really nice slab, clip some bolts to a 2 bolt/chain anchor. 5.8-
P2. From anchor climb slightly down, then up and right, pass a bolt to the steep section. Crank up and over steep section using sweet jugs of love, from 1st mini roof climb up clipping a bolt into a small overhanging dihedral. Move left onto the foot ledge at the top of the dihedral after clipping the bolt, this brings you to the belay on the 2nd pitch of Minions of Chaos. 5.8
P3. Traverse back the way you came from the anchor, when you get back to the bolt at your feet, climb up and right to a ramp system to a step. From the step aim for the big pine tree there is 4 bolts on this pitch. 5.8
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