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Juniper Overhang

5.9, Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 3.1 from 14 votes
FA: unknown
New Mexico > El Rito > El Rito Traditional Area
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Description

This is a good trad route that goes over the Juniper roof on its left side. A 50 m rope is sufficient.

p1: Start about 20 ft. right of Big E below a rectangular cutout which is about 70 ft. up. There's some vegetation heading up to the cutout. Climb over the ceiling of the cutout (5.7) and continue to a nice belay ledge. There is a 2-4" wide vertical crack for building a belay anchor.

p2: Climb straight up and trend left toward the right-facing dihedral below the roof. The climbing gets thin (5.9+) just below the roof. Stoppers and tri-cams are useful in the dihedral and for the roof move. The climbing gets easier above the roof. Continue to a 2-bolt anchor at the top.

Location

The start is about 20 ft. to the right of Big E, about midway along a fallen log on the ground.

To descend, scramble up and go left (northerly) for awhile to reach the standard, well established and cairned descent trail. This is a great trail.
Alternatively and much less desirable, you can take the "East Gully" descent as described on page 7 of Gary Clark's El Rito trad area guide.

Protection

gear: set of stoppers and cams to 3", 8 double-length runners; small tri-cams are useful.
anchors: gear on p1, bolted anchors on p2.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Scott climbing just above the rectangular cutout on p1 of Juniper Overhang (Nov. 26, 2006).
[Hide Photo] Scott climbing just above the rectangular cutout on p1 of Juniper Overhang (Nov. 26, 2006).
Scott below the roof on p2 of Juniper Overhang (Nov. 26, 2006).
[Hide Photo] Scott below the roof on p2 of Juniper Overhang (Nov. 26, 2006).

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ben Burnett
NM
  5.9-
[Hide Comment] Gear beta: it's a bit sparse on the first pitch, but good at the crux. On the second pitch it's a bit tricky until you get close to the roof. There's a perfect slot for a red alien (0.5 Camalot?) and a #2 Camalot fits above the roof to protect the crux. Tall folks can stand on the ledges on the face and reach gear, others might end up on thin holds to place/remove it. May 10, 2021