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The Hourglass

5.11a, Trad, 140 ft,  Avg: 3.3 from 4 votes
FA: Sam Magro and Pat Kingsbury September 2008
Wyoming > Devils Tower > E & Northeast Buttres…
Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details


An excellent anomaly that Pat aptly characterized as, "the average man's Animal Cracker Land". Unlike the typical Tower corner, this one follows an elegant wavy fracture crack up a vague prow. It's easily identified by the large lower pod, reminiscent of a Yosemite feature. The crack opens and closes throughout, providing big moves between sinker locks. Start on the lower crack of Dump Watt, cut right into the big pod, exit this and stem a bit up the corner to the right (Marriage Was my Worst Mistake), before being forced to commit to the fracture crack entirely for some cruxy pulls, and exit left on faceholds into the final 20' of Dump Watt to beefy, brand-new anchors. Thought-provoking, sustained, and surprisingly steep--this is a very unique pitch for the Tower with a distinct character!


The wavy fracture crack between Dump Watt and Marriage Was My Worst Mistake. Two cracks right of the direct start to Belle Fourche.


Double set of stoppers and cams through #3 camalot. One C4 #4 camalot. A few long runners for the lower section.

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Dave Elder enters the pod low on the Hourglass.
[Hide Photo] Dave Elder enters the pod low on the Hourglass.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] i thought it was .10++ haha

very good route though....highly suggested!


patrick Oct 10, 2008
Trevor Bowman
Flagstaff, AZ
[Hide Comment] ha, yeah they really need to add that option in the ratings list... although I just now remembered we'd all agreed on .9+ as seeming fair... Oct 11, 2008