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Trad, 140 ft,
Avg: 3.3 from 4
FA: Sam Magro and Pat Kingsbury September 2008
> Devils Tower
> E & Northeast Buttres…
Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure
VOLUNTARY JUNE CLIMBING CLOSURE
The National Park Service asks that climbers choose not to climb the Tower during the month of June. The June voluntary climbing closure was selected as part of the Devils Tower Climbing Management Plan by a working group that included two climber organizations, two American Indian organizations, and other agency and local government representatives.
Climbers are strongly encouraged to consider enjoying the many other climbing options available in northeast Wyoming and the Black Hills area of South Dakota, during the month of June.
An excellent anomaly that Pat aptly characterized as, "the average man's Animal Cracker Land". Unlike the typical Tower corner, this one follows an elegant wavy fracture crack up a vague prow. It's easily identified by the large lower pod, reminiscent of a Yosemite feature. The crack opens and closes throughout, providing big moves between sinker locks. Start on the lower crack of Dump Watt, cut right into the big pod, exit this and stem a bit up the corner to the right (Marriage Was my Worst Mistake), before being forced to commit to the fracture crack entirely for some cruxy pulls, and exit left on faceholds into the final 20' of Dump Watt to beefy, brand-new anchors. Thought-provoking, sustained, and surprisingly steep--this is a very unique pitch for the Tower with a distinct character!
The wavy fracture crack between Dump Watt and Marriage Was My Worst Mistake. Two cracks right of the direct start to Belle Fourche.
Double set of stoppers and cams through #3 camalot. One C4 #4 camalot. A few long runners for the lower section.