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Routes in Quartzite Wasteland

Charcoal Burger Daydream T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Down South T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
El Lagarto Borracho T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Flip Ya Lid S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Interstate Love Song T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Left Project T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Loss of Innocence S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Something From Nothing T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Twig and Berries T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Mike Schneiter, March 21, 2009
Page Views: 46 total · 0/month
Shared By: Michael Schneiter on Oct 8, 2008
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Down South is a quality line with sustained climbing and some "serious" sections." It goes with all gear but expect to do some good climbing above your gear. May be the best route on the wall and has been highly touted by those who have climbed it.

Shares the same start as El Lagarto Borracho before moving right and climbing the vertical crack system splitting the right edge of the face. Tricky gear and thoughtful climbing characterize the first third of the route before well-protected climbing leads to the final crux. Plug in a couple of cams in the last good horizontal before "punching" it on smaller holds and some thoughtful sequences that trend left before the anchor. This section may not be quite 5.11 but it will probably be considered R rated by most.

Expect to employ a wide variety of climbing techniques on this pitch as it stays "on you" the whole time.

Location

Just right of El Lagarto Borracho, sharing the same start before moving right.

Protection

Medium to large stoppers, a set of cams to #3 Camalot with extras in the tips to thin-hands sizes. Two bolt anchor.

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