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Routes in Quartzite Wasteland

Charcoal Burger Daydream T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Down South T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
El Lagarto Borracho T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Flip Ya Lid S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Interstate Love Song T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Left Project T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Loss of Innocence S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Something From Nothing T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Twig and Berries T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, Sport, 100 ft
FA: Mike & Joy Schneiter, May 16, 2008
Page Views: 42 total, 0/month
Shared By: Michael Schneiter on Oct 8, 2008
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

“The Drunken Lizard.” This climb weaves back and forth, like “a drunken lizard," challenging your route-finding skills to ascend this at its easiest grade.

Begin by climbing on face features while plugging gear into a vertical crack at the start. Pass the first, and largest roof on the left. Above, negotiate your way through a few more difficult sections and a couple smaller roof features while using a mix of bolts and horizontal seams for protection.

Save a #2 Camalot for the top and be ready for a few “heady” sections of climbing above gear and/or bolts.

Location

Located just right of Charcoal Burger Daydream on the tall, south-facing face.

Protection

Six bolts and double set of cams to #2 Camalot.

Photos

Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
 
The ratings on these are tough to figure out. My wife, the eternal sandbager, thought this was around .10c. But, she also thought Charcoal Burger Daydream was harder because of a long move through the roof, which for us tall guys was no big deal. So, go figure. I still think this is in the 10d-ish range because there's no hard moves and instead it's just got some pump factor. Maybe you're just a little out of shape, huh BJ? Now that 30 is creeping up on you? Oct 9, 2008
BJ Sbarra
Carbondale, CO
 
BJ Sbarra   Carbondale, CO
 
This felt significantly harder than Charcoal Burger Daydream, if that route is 10d, this is probably 11a or b. Bigger pump factor on this one.... Oct 9, 2008