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Routes in Quartzite Wasteland

Charcoal Burger Daydream T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Down South T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
El Lagarto Borracho T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Flip Ya Lid S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Interstate Love Song T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Left Project T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Loss of Innocence S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Something From Nothing T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Twig and Berries T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, Sport, 100 ft
FA: Mike & Joy Schneiter, May 16, 2008
Page Views: 50 total, 0/month
Shared By: Michael Schneiter on Oct 8, 2008
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is the most classic of the climbs in this area and has been described as a "must-do" route that is worth the trip alone, along with El Lagarto Borracho.

Climb good face holds with a mix of bolts and cams in horizontal seams, passing through one roof and finishing on beautiful white and red marbled quartzite. The crux is getting over and past the roof halfway up. The crux may differ for individuals depending on height.

Location

Located on the tall, south-facing face right of the corner and large, chockstone-filled crack.

Protection

Eight bolts and gear to #3 Camalot.

Photos

Jay Eggleston
Denver
 
Jay Eggleston   Denver
 
This route has potential but it needs a weeks worth of vacuuming. It is sandy and loose but if you can ignore this the climbing was good. I almost killed my belayer with a loose block. Jul 29, 2009
BJ Sbarra
Carbondale, CO
 
BJ Sbarra   Carbondale, CO
 
This route is incredible, it's worth a visit to the crag just to chuck laps on this pitch. Don't miss it! Oct 9, 2008