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Routes in East Face

Max's Mayhem T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Parking Lot Corners T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Plus Four Crack, The T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Snuggles to Fall Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 837 total, 7/month
Shared By: Bosier Parsons on Oct 8, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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2015 Seasonal falcon nesting closures - reduced Details
2017 Seasonal Closures - Partial Closure Lifting Details

Description

I've always looked at this climb as a potential free climb, but from the ground it appeared the anchor would consist of one drilled pin. Then I noticed on 10/3/08 that someone added a new 2-bolt anchor (3/8" bolts, I think - not the huge beefy ones), and I had to finally climb it.

The route climbs two shallow, right-facing corners to the top of a pillar, linked by an easy face move protected with a drilled pin. The crux is low and is steep and sandy, but it protects well. The upper corner is easier. Either way, the climbing is fun, but certainly has some desert adventure to it, as it is very sandy, and the rock is soft, which makes you wonder if your protection wouldn't just rip right out if you were to fall.

I hope to see more climbers getting on this. Thanks to whomever added the new bolts at the anchor.

Location

This route ascends thin right-facing corners on the East face of North Gateway Rock just south of the North parking lot.

Protection

Red & Yellow C3 Camalots, #0.4-2 Camalots, 1 drilled pin. 2 new bolts, 1 drilled pin anchor.

Photos

This route is freaky! Loose and sandy I feel that if you were to fall on a cam in the lower flake that it could break the flake off. The rock is less than ideal. Climb at your own risk. Thank you, Mr. Green, for your efforts at The Garden. Oct 10, 2009
Bosier Parsons
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bosier Parsons   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Thanks Stewart. I've updated the route name. Oct 13, 2008
Called Parking Lot Corners. Brian Shelton and I added the new anchors a week ago. The city has been after us to get all the old webbing off there...unsightly for the tourists in the parking lot. Anyway I forgot to bring the big drill bit so we ended up putting 2 3/8-inch bolts in. An all right climb, not great but usually sandy and sort of funky. Typical Garden. Oct 13, 2008