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Routes in Johnny's Wall

2 Chicken Butts S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
59" DrillBitch S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bethel S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Brain Stem T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Burning Bush S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Climbing with Crowbars T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grey Matter TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mancala S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mental Affair T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spinner S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Thanks Holly S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Mike Trabel, Mike Susko - 2006
Page Views: 978 total, 9/month
Shared By: Carl Sherven on Oct 8, 2008
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Description

A slabby route complete with a giant ledge just below the first bolt. A little sandy/dirty as of Oct 2008.

Location

Look about 5m right of the obvious arete to find this slabby bolted line.

Protection

5 bolts to anchors.

Photos

Matt Roberts
Columbus, OH
  5.9-
Matt Roberts   Columbus, OH
  5.9-
I would only call this stiff for the grade for Muir. IMHO, its stiffer than the other 5.9s at Muir, but its a nice climb with a lot of good balance moves. Apr 2, 2012
saxfiend
Decatur, GA
  5.9+
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
  5.9+
Surprisingly stiff for the grade; the moves past the second bolt are balancy. The "huge holds" referred to in the guidebook don't exist, somebody told me they all broke off. That might explain how sharp the remaining holds are. May 16, 2010